In Italy, elaborate chocolate Easter eggs are regarded the food present of selection this time of 12 months.
In Italy, elaborate chocolate Easter eggs are considered the meals present of alternative this time of year.
In Italy, there are no Easter egg hunts, no marshmallow Peeps and certainly no jelly beans.
Alternatively, there are chocolate eggs huge, elaborately decorated, beautifully wrapped chocolate Easter eggs that now fill shop windows across the country. The sweet treats are deemed Italians' meals present of choice at this time of 12 months. And each one comes with a surprise tucked inside.
"You want a thing that actually provides a major result," says Rome- primarily based food writer Elizabeth Minchilli.
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In 2012, an Italian chocolatier presented Benedict XVI, now pope emeritus, with a 6. 5 -foot-tall chocolate Easter egg weighing some 550 lbs.
In 2012, an Italian chocolatier presented Benedict XVI, now pope emeritus, with a 6. 5 -foot-tall chocolate Easter egg weighing some 550 lbs.
In mass- generated eggs, the hidden prize is usually a simple trinket, such as a crucial chain. But artisanal chocolatiers also abound and a lot of will make customized eggs for customers with a customized present hidden within. And the present - offering can get quite elaborate.
"Engagement rings and auto keys are standard presents," says Maurizio Proietti, a second -generation chocolate maker and owner of Rome's La Bottega del Cioccolato, naming some of the presents he's been asked to conceal. "Two tickets to a tropical island that was something unusual."
The shock within, adds Minchilli, depends on whom it is for. "A standard gift would be a charm for a necklace or bracelet," she tells The Salt. "But if it is for your wife, you could get a extremely tiny egg with gold earrings inside. A child may get a small toy."
A symbol of rebirth and renewal, eggs have long been linked with spring all over the globe.Chocolate eggs began turning into popular across Europe at the end of the 19th century, as chocolate became more inexpensive. But in Italy, the tradition genuinely took off soon after Planet War II, when folks weary of wartime deprivations lastly located themselves with a very little further investing money, Minchilli says. She's watched the tradition evolve in excess of the 40 years she's lived in Rome.
"I can don't forget living here in the '70s, and the eggs had been fairly straightforward. But they grew and grew, along with the thought that they have some kind of surprise within," she tells The Salt. "Like a good deal of traditions in Italy, they start out extremely basically, with persons providing a chocolate egg at Easter, and as time went on, individuals wished to make a bella figura, a particular present, for the vacation."
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In 2004, a purchasing center in Turin attempted to make the world's tallest Easter egg. This 1 was additional than 18 feet tall and weighed 5,500 pounds.
In 2004, a shopping center in Turin attempted to make the world's tallest Easter egg. This a single was far more than 18 feet tall and weighed five,500 lbs.
Minchilli splits the artisanal chocolatiers into two factions. In one camp are those who emphasis on chocolate with substantial - high quality components. Their eggs come wrapped in fancy dress, swaddled in stylish silks, tulle and foils tied neatly with ribbons.
And then there are those who go for edible decoration, utilizing pastel icing to personalize eggs. In this camp is 91- yr - previous Virginia Valzani, who nonetheless tends the till at her family's 88- yr - old chocolate shop in the heart of Rome. Valzani sells 1,000 eggs each Easter.
"We start off creating the eggs forty days in advance of Easter," Valzani tells The Salt, "and get many of the very same consumers year after yr."
Adds Minchilli: " People come from all over Rome at Easter time to get their eggs at Valzani due to the fact they offer you just about every single size of egg and white, milk and dark and they're not high-priced."
Eggs can vary wildly in value, depending on dimension, excellent of chocolate employed and elaborateness of wrapping and other decoration.
A basic store - bought, industrially generated egg may well set you back four or 5 euros (about $ five or $ six U.S.). But in chocolatier Proietti's shop, charges can array from $ eleven for a modest egg to $130 for an egg that weighs four pounds and is very well above a foot high. Eggs priced at $300 and past are not unheard of.
Even though the eggs are hollow, a very good -sized egg can weigh half a pound. And they're all over the place, from supermarkets to smaller alimentari, or corner shops, and even coffee bars.
" Every single coffee bar sells these eggs," says Minchilli, "and they'll have a single large egg that weighs around 20 pounds. "They promote tickets and raffle it off the day just before Easter. I have in no way won 1, but I preserve getting the tickets!"
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Marshmallow eggs made with homemade flavored sugar are a colorful treat at Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif. To make them, pipe homemade marshmallow into hollow plastic eggs (see recipe, below).
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After 40 long days of Lenten abstention, Easter is a time for indulgence. And for those of us who don't observe Lent well, who can resist all those chocolate bunnies? It's a time for sweets, with or without an excuse.
But if you're looking for Easter indulgences that are a little more refined than Peeps and jelly beans, take a cue from renowned chef Thomas Keller, whose Bouchon restaurants are as famous for their baked goods as they are for their bistro fare.
Earlier this week, NPR's Renee Montagne visited the kitchen of the Bouchon restaurant and bakery in Beverly Hills, Calif., for a taste of some of Keller's takes on classic Easter sweets.
Most of us can't sneak a taste of Keller's hot cross bun frosting, like Montagne did, but thanks to the cookbook Bouchon Bakery, which Keller co-authored, we can re-create some of those treats at home. Be warned, though: Keller's standards are exacting, and reproducing some of his items requires extra prep work and maybe some shopping for new kitchen tools.
For precision baking, Keller says a scale is crucial; flour can easily shift in density, so measuring in cups is dangerously inaccurate, he argues.
"Throw away your measuring cups," Keller tells Montagne. "Buy yourself a gram scale instead."
Other items you might need that may not be kitchen staples, like acetate sheets and powdered food coloring, make cooking easier and cleanup far less stressful.
Keller led NPR through the process of making three Easter treats from his kitchen. Recipes for all three can be found farther down.
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The BouchonBakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting "cross" on a pan of hot cross buns.
The BouchonBakery cookbook demonstrates how to apply the frosting "cross" on a pan of hot cross buns.
Hot Cross Buns
Hot cross buns date back hundreds of years and have traditionally been made on Good Friday. These dough rolls marked with a cross had a religious component, certainly, but they're also symbolic of another kind of devotion, Keller explains. "Eating the hot cross bun with your friend meant that you'd be friends for life, so it really signified that kind of friendship in a positive way," he says. "And then there's another myth: If you kept a bun for an entire year, it would not go moldy, and if you became sick and you ate it, it would cure whatever sickness you have."
Bouchon's version is a rich brioche roll studded with dried currants and cranberries. Pastry chefs top the brioche with a cross of white confectioners' sugar frosting, spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. Myths aside, don't let them sit for a year: They're best eaten the same day they're baked.
Marshmallow Eggs
Keller has fond memories of that springtime staple, Peeps: "They're very cute," he says, "and, you know, they remind us of when we were kids. I mean, we ate those all the time."
Bouchon's egg-shaped, homemade marshmallows turn that childhood memory into a grown-up treat. The marshmallow imparts a richness that can come as a surprise Montagne describes it as "almost like thick cream."
Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery makes a variety of carrot-themed desserts carrot cake, carrot muffins and carrot cupcakes to celebrate Easter.
Carrot Muffins
The last recipe is a little less obviously Easter-related, but Keller says carrot muffins are a holiday staple. "Bunnies eat carrots. We've got to have carrots involved in Easter, because that's Bugs Bunny's favorite vegetable," he jokes. And there's a benefit to having carrot muffins on your table of holiday indulgences: "Everybody loves it, because in many ways you think it's really, really healthy for you," Keller says. "It's a way of being sinful, but also being responsible to some health concerns."
If you're making carrot muffins at home, the key is to start with the right kind of carrots: the small, skinny ones that come in bunches, rather than the larger "horse carrots" you might use for soup. "We want to have the sweetest possible carrot that we can get," Keller says, which means carrots less than an inch in diameter.
Look below for Keller's recipes for hot cross buns, marshmallow eggs and carrot muffins. Be sure to set aside ample time for these treats they are all multiday projects, with some sort of overnight component. After all, you don't cook your way to three Michelin stars by taking shortcuts.
Recipe: Hot Cross Buns
Makes 12 buns
For The Buns
3/4 cup (122 grams) dried currants 1/2 cup (61 grams) dried cranberries 1/2 teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla paste Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns (recipe follows) Egg Wash (recipe follows)
This recipe was developed by Bouchon Bakery's head baker, Matthew McDonald. The buns are loaded with currants and cranberries and piped with an icing spiced with cinnamon and cardamom. It's the beguiling addition of cardamom to just the right amount of cinnamon in the icing, and the way the spices play off the fruit, that gives these buns their zing. Hot cross buns are an English tradition on Good Friday, but they're so good we hope you'll make them all year round.
You'll need a quarter sheet pan and a disposable pastry bag. Buns baked in a convection oven will have a slightly higher rise and a more even color.
For The Buns
Combine the currants and cranberries in a medium bowl and pour 2 cups boiling water over them. Let sit for 5 minutes to plump the fruit, then drain and pat dry with paper towels. Dry the bowl, return the fruit to it, and toss with the vanilla paste. Set aside.
Spray a large bowl with nonstick spray. Run a bowl scraper around the sides and down to the bottom of the bowl of brioche dough to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface, adding flour only as needed to keep it from sticking.
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Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns.
Chef Thomas Keller demonstrates how to apply homemade icing to his hot cross buns.
With your hands, gently pat the dough into a rectangular shape. Pour the currant-cranberry mixture onto the dough and knead it into the dough (which will be sticky) to distribute it evenly. Pat the dough into a rectangle again.
Stretch the left side of the dough out and fold it over two-thirds of the dough, then stretch and fold it from the right side to the opposite side, as if you were folding a letter. Repeat the process, working from the bottom and then the top. Turn the dough over, lift it up with a bench scraper, and place it seam side down in the prepared bowl. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap or a clean dish towel and let the dough sit at room temperature for 45 minutes.
Repeat the stretching and folding process, then return the dough to the bowl, seam side down, cover, and let sit for another 45 minutes.
Spray the quarter sheet pan with nonstick spray. Line the bottom with parchment paper and spray the paper.
Use the bowl scraper to release the dough and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Using a bench scraper, divide the dough into 12 equal portions (78 grams each). Cup your fingers around a portion of dough and, using the palm of your hand, roll it against the work surface to form a ball. Continue to roll until the dough is completely smooth. Repeat with the remaining dough. (When you become proficient at rolling with one hand, you can use both hands and roll 2 portions at a time.) Set the balls on the prepared pan in 3 rows of 4. Brush the tops with egg wash.
Cover the pan with a plastic tub or a cardboard box and let proof for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, until the balls have risen and are touching.
Preheat the oven to 325 F (convection) or 350 F (standard).
Brush the tops of the buns with egg wash again. Bake for 17 to 22 minutes in a convection oven, 25 to 30 minutes in a standard oven, until the tops are a rich golden brown and, when tested with a toothpick, the centers are baked through. Set the pan on a cooling rack and let cool completely. (If freezing, do not ice the buns at this point.)
For The Icing
Sift the sugar, cinnamon and cardamom into the bowl of a stand mixer. Fit the mixer with the paddle attachment and mix on the lowest setting for about 15 seconds to distribute the spices evenly. With the mixer running, slowly add the milk. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, increase the speed to low, and mix for 30 seconds to 1 minute, until smooth.
Transfer the icing to the pastry bag. Cut off 1/4 inch of the tip. Starting at the left side of the top corner bun, pipe a continuous strip of icing across the center of the first row of 3 buns. Repeat with the remaining 3 rows. Then repeat in the opposite direction, across the 3 rows of 4 buns, working in the opposite direction, to create a cross of frosting on each bun. Serve the whole pan, or cut into individual buns.
The buns are best the day they are baked, but they can be stored, before icing, wrapped tightly in a few layers of plastic wrap or in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week (see note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries).
* Note on freezing unbaked brioche pastries: Unbaked brioche pastries can be frozen after they are formed, but before they are proofed, wrapped in a few layers of plastic wrap, for up to 1 week. When ready to use, remove from the freezer and proof the dough as directed, keeping in mind that the proofing may take up to 5 hours.
* Note on defrosting frozen baked brioche pastries: Defrost, still in the plastic wrap or in the container, in the refrigerator. Leaving the pastries wrapped or in the container means any condensation will form on the outside, not on the pastries. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes.
Recipe: Brioche Dough For Hot Cross Buns
2 1/2 cups plus 2 1/2 tablespoons (372 grams) all-purpose flour 2 3/8 teaspoons (8 grams) instant yeast 3 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons (44 grams) granulated sugar 1 1/2 teaspoons (9 grams) fine sea salt 1/2 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (186 grams) eggs 1/4 cup (63 grams) whole milk 5.8 ounces (167 grams) unsalted butter cut into 1/2 -inch cubes
Brioche is a bread that's enriched with butter and eggs. There are different ways of making it, with different proportions of butter. Everything should be at room temperature so the dough comes together beautifully. The dough then gets folded and is fermented in the refrigerator overnight.
To mix the dough, place the flour and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook and mix for about 15 seconds to distribute the yeast evenly. Add all of the remaining dough ingredients, except the butter, and mix on low speed for 4 minutes. Continue to mix on low speed for 30 minutes. (At this point there will be some dough sticking to the sides of the bowl.) Add the butter a few pieces at a time, incorporating each addition before adding the next. Stop and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl and push the dough off the hook. Continue to mix for 10 minutes.
Recipe: Egg Wash
Break 1 or more eggs, as needed, into a small bowl and whip with a fork or small whisk to combine the white(s) and yolk(s) well. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer before using.
* Note: We use egg washes often. If you want a nice shine on a dough, give the dough two brushings of it: The first brushing acts as a sealer, and the second is more like a glaze. At the bakery, because we egg-wash great volumes of products, we put the egg wash, strained, into a spray gun, paint gun or airbrush. This not only gives us a uniform coating, it's also very gentle on the dough, which is important if it's a proofed and delicate croissant, for example. If you're only egg-washing a small quantity, use a pastry brush.
Excerpted from Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.
Recipe: Marshmallow Eggs
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Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills.
Thomas Keller demonstrates how to prepare and open his recipe for his marshmallow eggs at his Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills.
Makes 12 eggs
Marshmallows, just mixed and still warm (recipes follow) 1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon (90 grams) white or colored decorating sugar, store-bought or homemade (recipes follow)
At Easter, the team loves to make marshmallow eggs. When you serve them in all kinds of colors, they're a joy to behold, especially for kids. We make different flavors and colors, coat them in various decorative sugars, and place them in egg cartons. For vanilla eggs, we use plain sugar, but for the raspberry we use our raspberry sugar and for the lemon, our lemon sugar. When people first open the carton, they think it's filled with dyed Easter eggs, not marshmallows. Be sure to buy sturdy plastic eggs to use as molds; the cheaper ones are really flimsy. Note that the marshmallows and decorating sugar should rest overnight before coating the eggs.
You'll need twelve two-piece plastic eggs, a clean egg carton, and a pastry bag with a 1/2-inch plain tip.
If the plastic eggs are new, open them, wash them and dry thoroughly. Spray the inside of both halves of each egg with nonstick spray and set them in the egg carton.
Fill the pastry bag with the warm marshmallow mixture. Holding the tip close to the bottom of an egg half, slowly pull up as you fill the half completely; try not to leave any air pockets. Fill the other half and fit the top and bottom together there will be some resistance, but they must be secure to form a perfectly shaped egg. Wipe off the excess marshmallow that oozes from the egg with a damp paper towel. Repeat with the remaining eggs. Stand the filled eggs in the egg carton and let them sit at room temperature overnight.
Put the decorating sugar in a small bowl. Remove the eggs from the molds. Toss the eggs in the sugar and then stand them in the egg carton.
If they will be served within a few hours, let the eggs sit at room temperature. For longer storage, place the egg carton in a large covered container for up to 2 weeks.
For Vanilla Marshmallows
Makes about 4 dozen 1-inch marshmallows (250 grams/8.8 ounces)
1/2 cup (5 grams) powdered sugar 1/2 cup (6.4 grams) cornstarch 4 sheets (9.6 grams) silver leaf gelatin 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons (87 grams) egg whites 1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (225 grams) granulated sugar 1/2 cup (112 grams) water 2 1/2 tablespoons (50 grams) light corn syrup
Marshmallows may seem mysterious and complex, but they're really easy nothing more than meringue set with gelatin. If you can make a meringue, you can make your own marshmallows. They're playful and fun, and they can be made in different flavors. We make lemon, raspberry and vanilla marshmallows, but you could add jams or pistachio paste for different flavors (add 15 to 20 percent of the weight of the egg whites and sugar).
You'll need an 8-inch-square baking pan, an 8-inch-square piece of acetate, and a Thermapen or other candy thermometer.
Mix the powdered sugar and cornstarch together. Line the baking pan with plastic wrap and sprinkle the plastic wrap generously with the powdered sugar mixture; set the remainder aside.
Place the gelatin in a bowl of ice water to soften.
Spray one side of the piece of acetate with nonstick spray; set aside.
Remove the gelatin from the water and squeeze out excess water. Place the gelatin in a small metal bowl set over a small pot of simmering water and melt it (do not let it simmer), then reduce the heat and keep it warm.
Meanwhile, place the egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add the seeds to the egg whites.
Combine the granulated sugar, water and corn syrup in a large saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar, then simmer for about 5 minutes, until the syrup reaches 250 F/121.1 C.
Letting the syrup continue to cook, turn the mixer to medium speed. The goal is to have the whites at medium peaks when the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C. Should the whites reach stiff peaks before the syrup reaches the proper temperature, reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting.
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After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here.
After the marshmallow has set, open the plastic shell and dip the egg in flavored and colored sugar, as Thomas Keller demonstrates here.
When the syrup reaches 281 to 284 F/138 to 140 C, remove it from the heat. Turn the mixer to medium speed and slowly add the syrup to the egg whites, pouring it between the side of the bowl and the whisk. Pour in the gelatin, increase the speed to medium-high, and mix for about 5 minutes, until the mixture is thickened, glossy and warm but not hot.
Spray a spatula with nonstick spray. Spread the marshmallow evenly in the prepared pan. Top with the acetate, sprayed side down, and gently press it against the marshmallow to make the top perfectly smooth.
Set a piece of parchment paper larger than the marshmallow on a large cutting board.
Remove the sheet of acetate. Coat the top of the marshmallow with some of the reserved powdered sugar mixture. Flip the marshmallow onto the parchment paper, remove the plastic wrap, and sprinkle with more of the powdered sugar mixture as necessary.
It can be difficult to cut marshmallows evenly. Spray a large chef's knife with nonstick spray and trim the sides of the marshmallow square, then cut into 1-inch cubes (or other shapes), using a ruler as a guide. Clean and respray the knife before each cut. If the marshmallows are sticky when you separate them, dust them lightly with additional powdered sugar mixture.
The marshmallows can be stored in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
For Raspberry Marshmallows
Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 2 drops red food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Red Red, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and gently whisk in 12 grams/2 tablespoons raspberry powder. Spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.
For Lemon Marshmallows
Omit the vanilla bean. If desired, add 6 drops yellow food coloring, preferably Chefmaster Lemon Yellow, to the warm marshmallow mixture and mix just to combine. Add the grated zest of 2 lemons (12 grams/2 tablespoons) and mix to combine, then spread the marshmallow in the pan and proceed as directed.
Recipe: Colored Decorating Sugar
For Raspberry Sugar
1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar 6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note) 1/2 teaspoons (1 gram) dehydrated raspberry powder, or as needed Powdered oil-soluble red food coloring
For Lemon Sugar
1/4 cup plus 1 1/2 tablespoons (100 grams) large-crystal sparkling sugar 6 drops diluted citric acid (see Note) 3/4 teaspoons (1.5 grams) grated zest of 1/2 lemon (use a rasp grater) Powdered oil-soluble yellow food coloring
Don't be tempted to use liquid food coloring; it won't work here. If you'd like, wear a pair of plastic gloves to avoid staining your hands.
Place the sugar in a small bowl. Stir in the citric acid, raspberry powder or lemon zest, and just the amount of food coloring that fits on the tip of a small paring knife (less than a pinch), then use your hands to work the mixture together. If you'd like, add a little additional powder and/or food coloring. Spread the sugar on a baking sheet and let it dry overnight at room temperature.
* Note: To make diluted citric acid, combine 3/8 teaspoon (2 grams) citric acid and 3/4 teaspoon (2 grams) water in a small cup and stir to dissolve the citric acid.
Excerpted from Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.
Recipe: Carrot Muffins
The Bouchon Bakery cookbook highlights the streusel topping on Keller's carrot muffins.
Makes 6 muffins
For The Batter
1 1/4 cups plus 2 teaspoons (180 grams) all-purpose flour 1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (3.11 grams) baking soda 1/4 teaspoon (1 grams) baking powder 3/4 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2.3 grams) ground cinnamon 1/2 plus 1/8 teaspoon (2 grams) kosher salt 1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (207 grams) granulated sugar 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (142 grams) canola oil 1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 1/3 cup (80 grams) eggs 1 3/4 cups (212 grams) shredded carrots Generous 1 1/4 cups (180 grams) Oat Streusel Topping (recipe follows)
You'll need a 6-cup jumbo muffin pan and muffin papers.
This is a good basic carrot muffin, and we sprinkle it with a great oat streusel for even more flavor and texture.
Carrots and other vegetables, such as zucchini add moisture to muffin and cake batters. Carrots are so plentiful that we often take them for granted, but all carrots are not alike. I hope you'll pay a little extra for bunch carrots, carrots still with their tops, rather than the ones in plastic bags. The quality makes a big difference when they're a major part of the recipe.
This recipe uses vegetable oil, not butter, and if you omit the streusel, it is dairy free.
Place the flour in a medium bowl. Sift in the baking soda, baking powder and cinnamon. Add the salt and whisk together.
Combine the sugar and oil in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and mix on low speed for about 1 minute. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the sugar mixture, and mix for 30 seconds to distribute the seeds evenly. Scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl, add the eggs, and mix on low speed for about 1 minute, until just incorporated. Add the dry ingredients in 2 additions, mixing on low speed for 15 seconds after each, or until just combined.
Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and scrape the bottom of the bowl to incorporate any dry ingredients that may have settled there. Stir in the carrots. Transfer the batter to a covered container and refrigerate overnight, or for up to 36 hours.
To bake the muffins: Preheat the oven to 425 F (standard). Line the muffin pan with the muffin papers and spray the papers with nonstick spray.
Spoon the batter evenly into the papers, stopping 3/8 inch from the top (135 grams each). Sprinkle 30 grams/3 tablespoons of the streusel on top of each muffin and press gently into the batter. Place the pan in the oven, lower the oven temperature to 325 F, and bake for 40 to 43 minutes, or until the muffins are golden brown and a skewer inserted in the center comes out clean. Set the pan on a cooling rack and cool completely.
The muffins are best the day they are baked, but they can be wrapped individually in a few layers of plastic wrap or stored in a single layer in a covered container at room temperature for up to 3 days or frozen for up to 1 week.
For The Oat Streusel Topping
Makes 4 cups (544 grams)
1 cup (142 grams) all-purpose flour 1 1/4 cups plus 1 tablespoon (107 grams) old-fashioned oats 1/4 cup plus 3 1/2 tablespoons (106 grams) toasted wheat germ 1/2 cup plus 2 1/2 teaspoons (lightly packed) (50 grams) light brown sugar 2 tablespoons plus 1 1/4 teaspoons (29 grams) granulated sugar 1/2 teaspoon (1.2 grams) ground cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon (0.5 gram) freshly grated nutmeg 1/8 teaspoon (0.4 gram) kosher salt 1/4 vanilla bean, split lengthwise 4 ounces (113 grams) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/4 -inch pieces
Combine all of the ingredients except the vanilla bean and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, and mix on low speed to combine. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean, add them to the dry mixture, and mix until evenly distributed. Toss in the butter and mix for about 1 minute, or until the butter is incorporated, with no large chunks remaining.
Transfer to a covered container or a resealable plastic bag. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or up to 2 days, or freeze for up to 1 month. Use the streusel while it is cold.
* Note on mixing muffin batter: When mixing a muffin batter, it is important not to overwhip the eggs, as that could cause the muffins to expand too much during baking and then deflate. The mixture may look broken after you whip in the eggs, but that is fine.
* Note on defrosting frozen baked muffins: Defrost the muffins still in the container so any condensation will form on the outside of the container, and not on the muffins. Place on a sheet pan and refresh in a 325 F oven (standard) for about 5 minutes, if desired.
Excerpted from Bouchon Bakery by Thomas Keller and Sebastien Rouxel (Artisan Books). Copyright 2012.
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A British couple believes they've come across a sizzling cross bun that was baked more than 200 years ago. Host Scott Simon explains.
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A signal outside Lou Caracciolo's winery, Amalthea Cellars
Halfway in between the New Jersey Turnpike and the Atlantic City casinos is a little slice of France: Amalthea Cellars. There's an old farmhouse, and a field complete of grapevines.
Lou Caracciolo, who founded Amalthea, is walking via the field. " Here is anything I place in the ground in 1976," he says. "You have to have a feel for it, and soon after thirty years I have a very fantastic feel for it."
Caracciolo calls himself a hopeless romantic. And, actually, you have to be a romantic to attempt to make a $33 bottle of cabernet sauvignon blend in New Jersey.
Amalthea Cellars has to conquer not only the jokes about Jersey, but also the popularity of other New Jersey wines.
There are dozens of winemakers in New Jersey. But numerous of them make a quite unique sort of wine wine that's less costly and a lot sweeter. Just down the road from Amalthea is the Tomasello Winery, whose sweet wine is offered all all around the nation. "It goes very very well with cheesecake," Charlie Tomasello says.
There is practically nothing wrong with a $ ten cheesecake wine. But it generates a challenge for winemakers who want to make the fancy, dry, French- style wine.
Caracciolo and some of the other wine growers in the state want Jersey to be the following Napa Valley. He would like wine collectors, tasting excursions, location weddings. He desires to alter people's minds.
The winery's 1st step has been to start out with the label. Even even though the fancy winemakers are in New Jersey, they want to separate themselves from Jersey. They petitioned the government for a unique geographic designation like, say, Napa Valley. So now the fancy wines say they're from the "Outer Coastal Plain."
"I suggest, it does sound fancier than New Jersey," Caracciolo says.
But a label only gets you so far.
"The wine company in the state has got to kick that status," says George Taber, a wine journalist who utilized to reside in Jersey. "And you don't kick it by having 80 % of the wines in the marketplace be people sweet wines."
So Caracciolo has been on a mission. He visits the sweet winemakers and tells them to preserve making the sweet stuff but make a number of fancy, dry wines on the side.
Some of them have responded. Charlie Tomasello, of sweet wine fame, is now offering a $48 bottle of cabernet. "It has nice cassis and forward fruit and a small bit of leather and chocolate in there," he says.
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Passover and Easter are essential instances for faith and family members, but they are also massive occasions for foods. Guest host Celeste Headlee is joined by Mexican chef Pati Jinich to enable include some spice to your vacation table.
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Whilst quite a few men and women appreciate sweet treats like these chocolate bunnies the price of a important ingredient has some individuals bitter. A government subsidy plan is criticized for keeping sugar rates as well substantial. But as rates fall, the government may well purchase sugar to assist processors.
Whilst quite a few folks appreciate sweet treats like these chocolate bunnies the price tag of a key ingredient has some folks bitter. A government subsidy program is criticized for trying to keep sugar charges as well large. But as charges fall, the government may well buy sugar to assist processors.
Although you indulge in some Easter Peeps and chocolates this weekend, you may want to feel about all that sugar. No, this is not a calorie warning. In the U.S., raw sugar can expense twice the planet regular.
Critics say U.S. sugar policy artificially inflates sugar rates to advantage an exclusive group of processors even although it leads to higher food prices. But this year, charges fell anyway. Now, the government could be poised to use taxpayer bucks to acquire up the excess sugar.
American sugar begins where you'd anticipate : in a discipline, like Gary Gravois' sugarcane crop in Napoleonville, La.
" It really is just something in the culture of South Louisiana," Gravois says. "If you're a farmer, which is rather a lot what you do."
And in the end, that sugar might finish up in a jelly bean. Bob Simpson, president of Jelly Belly in California, says it truly is 40 % of the solution and the "most costly ingredient."
A Sweet Deal?
Sugar fees are a difficult blend of import restrictions, production quotas and a variety of guaranteed selling price.
"The U.S. sugar process is fundamentally a Soviet- design management on manufacturing," says Chris Edwards, an economist at the Cato Institute.
The impact of these policies, he says, is that U.S. sugar costs normally remain artificially substantial from time to time twice the world price. ( Final year, the price of sugar around the world averaged 26. 5 cents per pound, compared with 43. four cents in the U.S.) That hurts food businesses and prospects to greater charges at the grocery retailer.
"The core goal of policymakers has been to push up U.S. sugar rates to the advantage of U.S. sugar growers," Edwards says.
A large part of this policy is a sweet loan plan for the processors that refine sugar. To spend growers like Gravois appropriate away, processors can take out government loans. The sugar itself is the collateral.
This leads to an interesting decision : If sugar charges go up, processors sell it on the open industry and make a revenue. If rates fall, they can just hand over their sugar to the government and maintain the loan dollars.
Sugar's Value Tag
The plan is supposed to run at no expense to taxpayers.
"The loans are generally repaid in most years," says Joe Glauber, chief economist at the U.S. Department of Agriculture.
But that could adjust this 12 months. Even with all those import restrictions and value supports, sugar costs fell. Farmers like Gravois created a good deal far more than anticipated.
" Last yr was the very best crop we ever made," Gravois says.
Which is why processors may possibly now be tempted to forfeit their sugar to the government rather of offering it. This is in which your tax bucks come in.
The government is considering purchasing that surplus sugar straight from processors and then promoting it at a reduction to businesses that make ethanol. That would take some of the surplus off the market, boosting processors' income, but taxpayers could be on the hook for millions of bucks.
The Salt
Farm Bill Critics Declare Partial Victory In spite of Stalemate
'It Is What It Is'
The USDA says it can be not to blame. The company just administers what Congress sets in the farm bill.
All over the Nation
Farm Subsidies Face Big Battle In Congress
"It is what it is. It truly is been a system that supports a whole lot of sugar producers and has had a lot of assistance in Congress over the many years," Glauber says.
Politics
The Consequences Of A Brief - Term Farm Bill Fix
In fact, import tariffs on sugar date back to 1789. Other provisions originated throughout the Wonderful Depression.
Sugar policy has been so contentious for so lengthy that the two sides have derisive nicknames for each and every other it really is " Large Sugar" versus " Massive Candy."
Representing Massive Candy is Bob Simpson from Jelly Stomach, who also chairs the National Confectioners Association. " We would just like them to compete on a fair, open industry without the intrusion of the federal government," he says.
He says Jelly Belly opened a plant in Thailand, partly to get more cost-effective sugar for markets overseas.
Defending Big Sugar is Jack Roney of the American Sugar Alliance.
" There's genuinely no explanation for contention about U.S. sugar policy. It really is the most effective of any U.S. commodity policy," says Roney, who adds that in most many years this program costs taxpayers absolutely nothing not like other farm supports.
He blames falling costs on Mexican imports which, under the North American Absolutely free Trade Agreement, are not controlled by tariffs.
What To Do With Extra
Roney says the argument in excess of greater meals charges is really about food firms lobbying to get sugar prices down. "Is that out of some altruistic desire to support people ? Effectively, no. It can be so they can improve revenue," he says.
He says ditching the sugar supports would put 1000's of jobs at chance.
But opposition to the sugar policy has brought together an unusual alliance of libertarian conservatives, environmentalists, food corporations and lawmakers from both parties.
In the meantime, the government has about six months to decide whether or not to purchase extra sugar using our dollars.
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You phone it salad. The bacteria get in touch with it house.
You contact it salad. The bacteria get in touch with it household.
Deadly microbes like Salmonella and E. coli can lurk on the surface of spinach, lettuce and other fresh meals. But a lot of additional benign microbes also flourish there, living lives of quiet obscurity, significantly like the small Whos in Dr. Seuss's Whoville. Until eventually now.
Scientists at the University of Colorado have taken what could be the initially broad inventory of the microbes that dwell on strawberries, lettuce, tomatoes and eight other popular fresh food items.
It turns out the invisible communities residing on our foods differ drastically, dependent on the form, and no matter whether it's traditional or natural.
Mung bean sprouts, for one particular, harbor really distinct bacteria than alfalfa sprouts. Grapes, apples and peaches household a higher range of bacteria than veggies. And mushrooms are living in a microbial space of their own, sharing incredibly number of bacteria with the other meals examined.
That's rather distinct than strawberries, tomatoes and spinach. They had very similar surface bacteria, with most coming from one relatives, the Enterobacteriaiceae. That family consists of E. coli, but quite a few, numerous other harmless and possibly valuable bacteria, as well. Enterobacteriaiceae was also the most typical relatives, accounting for about one particular -third of all the microbes total.
The fantastic news : Most of the bacterial horde is benign.
Nevertheless, the sprouts "had a quite substantial quantity of diverse forms of bacteria linked with them, particularly alfalfa sprouts," according to Jonathan Leff, an associate scientist at the Cooperative Institute for Study in the Environmental Sciences at the University of Colorado, who led the research.
Unsafe bacteria on sprouts have induced a lot of outbreaks, which includes one particular in Germany that killed at least 31 men and women.
The natural -labeled create had diverse microbial communities than the conventionally grown food, with the organic microbes generally additional diverse, and the conventionally grown obtaining more Enterobacteriaiceae.
Is that very good ? We don't know. And we also will not know why they're diverse. "We can not say that this is attributable to the farming practice itself," Leff informed The Salt. "It could be transport and storage."
Also on the do not -know listing is how the distinctions in fruit and vegetable microbiomes affect human wellbeing. "We cannot say how we ought to act in terms of our daily purchases or how we consume," Leff says.
But knowing the microbiomes of fruits and vegetables, he says, may well in the end make it attainable to figure out strategies to delay spoilage in fresh produce, or to understand how the food bacteria interact with each and every other, and with the hundreds of thousands of bacteria in the human gut.
The researchers published their final results in the on the web journal PLoS One particular .
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An Arizona restaurant offered lion meat burgers in 2010 in an try to drum up business in the course of the Globe Cup soccer tournament held in South Africa.
An Arizona restaurant offered lion meat burgers in 2010 in an try to drum up company throughout the World Cup soccer tournament held in South Africa.
When we heard a couple of weeks ago that Illinois was thinking about banning lion meat, our initial imagined was, who's eating lion meat? And why Illinois?
Turns out, lion meat has been gaining traction among adventurous foodies who argue that the meat can be an ethical alternative to factory-farmed animals if the meat comes from American-raised circus and zoo animals that have been sent to the slaughterhouse in their old age.
"People's interest in nonfactory-farmed animals has undoubtedly influenced the interest in adventurous eating," says Curtiss Calleo, co-founder of a club for daring eaters called The Gastronauts, which has hosted a lion meat dinner in New York.
But just before even far more curious foodies can get a taste of lion, it might be banned by some who contemplate the culinary flirtation shameful.
Earlier this 12 months, Rep. Luis Arroyo introduced a bill in the Illinois Basic Assembly that would make it illegal to possess, breed, buy or promote lions for their meat.
" I have constantly thought of the lion to be the king of the jungle," Arroyo tells The Salt. "I by no means knew that folks have been consuming lion meat. I don't know who would want to do that."
Bernard Dehaene, a chef in Baltimore who has served lion, as very well as kangaroo and python, says there is practically nothing to be ashamed of. "We're not here to offend anyone," he says. In 2011, he started off an exotic meat club at the restaurant Corner BYOB. "We're right here to showcase and do some thing diverse and educate men and women about other meals."
But animal advocacy groups say consuming lion meat is hardly harmless.
Enlarge image i
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Support is currently thinking about adding the African lion to its endangered species listing.
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Support is at present thinking of incorporating the African lion to its endangered species list.
In the previous 20 many years, they note, the world's lion population has decreased by about half which is why wildlife protection and conservation organizations have petitioned the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service to include lions to its endangered species record.
At the moment, the Worldwide Union for Conservation of Nature lists African lions as "vulnerable" meaning they are at large risk of endangerment in the wild but there are no trade restrictions on them. Lions encounter a amount of threats, which includes habitat reduction, ailment, trophy hunting and international trade in their meat.
Born Absolutely free USA a single of the organizations that petitioned FWS for the listing says it worries that greater interest in lion meat in the U.S. might motivate additional poaching abroad. If diners knew "the hazards dealing with wild lions, they would absolutely abstain at just about every flip," says Adam Roberts, the group's executive vice president.
The FWS says the listing " may well be warranted" for lions and began a evaluation of the matter last November, but it could take the company an additional 12 months to make a last selection. In the meantime, Born Free of charge USA worked with Arroyo to draft his bill.
Which brings us back to the question : Why Illinois?
Nicely, a few many years ago, Born Absolutely free USA investigated the lion meat trade routes after receiving several reviews that it was on restaurant menus across the country. "It turns out that Illinois was truly the important actor in it all, each in terms of acquisition of lions, slaughter of lions and then, in the long run, the packaging of lion meat," says Roberts.
U.S. retailers that promote lion meat, like ExoticMeatMarket.com, say their meat comes from animals raised on a USDA-inspected lion farm outside Chicago, Gastronomica reported in 2012. And an short article in Popular Science claimed that the meat readily available on the industry in the U.S. comes from older animals from circuses, exotic pet fanatics and zoos.
"None of the lion meat offered in the U.S. comes or came from Africa," Calleo says. "So I am not exactly certain what banning farming lions or selling outdated circus and zoo animals for meat has to do with African poachers and conservation."
But Roberts argues that it truly is unattainable to be sure that none of the lion meat on U.S. dinner plates came from Africa. "You genuinely have, in our expertise, a circumstance wherever the U.S. Department of Agriculture and the Foods and Drug Administration are wanting at every other saying, 'Lions are not in our arena,' " Roberts tells The Salt. "And I believe it can be a species for which the flesh trade is falling by the cracks," he says.
And, Roberts says, it really is not just about conservation. " There is also a human wellbeing and safety issue, in that we will not know what form of antibiotic residues could stay in these animals, whether these animals are in any way sanitary for human consumption," he says.
Despite the fact that Born Cost-free USA has heard some stories of lion meat staying sourced outside Illinois, Roberts says he thinks a ban there "will considerably lower the number of lions becoming acquired for slaughter, the volume of lion meat staying traded, and the demand for lion meat about the nation."
In the end, if the U.S. lion meat trade is shut down by the FWS or Arroyo's bill, it most likely won't be the biggest loss for foodies. Simply because, as Calleo puts it, " It really is not the most fascinating meat you'll ever eat. Predators aren't really that tasty."
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Ernie Button was placing a Scotch glass left out overnight into the dishwasher when he noticed one thing a white, chalky film on the bottom of the glass. He held it up to the light and, upon closer inspection, could see a series of fine, lacy lines operating along the within of the glass.
As a hobbyist photographer whose function often focuses on showcasing the attractiveness of each day objects, Button was intrigued by this discovery. "Wow, there is a thing to that," he recalls pondering.
And as a result was born Vanishing Spirits: The Dried Remains of Single Malt Scotch, an ongoing photographic task Button has designed to highlight the gorgeous but usually ignored science of how liquids dry.
Right after very first noticing the patterns left behind in his glass, Button started experimenting with other Scotch residues, shining unique colored lights on them and photographing them up near. The final results have been strangely attractive. "A very little celestial, or extraterrestrial, almost," says Button.
That was 6 years ago. Given that then, Button, who lives in Phoenix, Ariz., has captured upward of 75 pictures of whisky residues that he considers excellent adequate to share with the public.
Some of his pictures will even be making their way above to Scotland in May possibly for an exhibition at the Islay Festival of Music and Malt.
And Button does not strategy on stopping anytime soon. " I am striving to let the operate just variety of grow organically and see in which it will take me," he says.
He just lately started out experimenting with manipulating the whisky as it dries moving the liquid around to create different deposit patterns.
He has also begun to wonder about the science behind his pictures. "I discover them fascinating in a weird kind of way," he says. "I think it truly is a great blend among science and creativity."
In accordance to Howard Stone, head researcher at Princeton University's Complicated Fluids Group, the rings and waves witnessed in Button's photos are almost certainly the consequence of particles that are left behind after the alcohol has evaporated.
These particles, which give the liquor its flavor and shade, are existing in " quite, really smaller quantities," says Stone, and can produce an "imprint of what the [whisky] was performing when it was striving to evaporate."
Analysis has proven that aqueous films tend to kind ringlike patterns as they dry. This is since evaporation takes place far more promptly at the edges of a liquid, consequently drawing particles in the liquid outward.
Inspired by Button's artwork, Stone is now conducting exploration with two of his postdocs, Ian Jacobi and Eujin Um, to additional investigate the properties of dried whisky residues. In specific, they are looking into why different sorts of whisky make subtly different patterns.
Button has observed this as properly that using various varieties of whisky helps make a distinction. "It would seem like the Scotches that are much more inland, like a Glenlivet... have a tendency to create finer lines," he says.
But even as he tries to much better comprehend how these patterns are formed, Button never ever loses sight of why he felt compelled to photograph them in the initially location.
" I'm a large admirer of finding the beauty in the normal or the from time to time overlooked," he says. " Take time and observe.... There is a lot of attractiveness out there, if you just seem."
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Spices are prevalent targets for foods fraudsters.
Spices are frequent targets for foods fraudsters.
By now we know that not every food is what it would seem.
Beef may possibly be horse meat, and tuna may well be considerably more affordable escolar. Further virgin olive oil is typically almost nothing of the form.
But if you really want to get paranoid, peek into the USP Meals Fraud Database. It can be a searchable trove of humankind's ceaseless efforts to swindle, hoodwink and defraud with food, globally.
Which is where I learned that hucksters sometimes use Sudan red dye to amp up paprika, which in its all-natural state is generally a demure reddish brown. Sudan red is a potent carcinogen, banned for use in food globally. Eek!
Spices, milk and vegetable oils are the most prevalent fraudulent foodstuffs, in accordance to Markus Lipp, senior director of foods standards for US Pharmacopeia. "If I go to India, I may find there is entirely fake milk on the market," Lipp informed The Salt. "Milk that never saw a cow."
The nonprofit organization can make its living by establishing sector requirements for pharmaceuticals and foods. The meals fraud database 1st launched in 2010, but a big upgrade in January added reports from scholarly journals and the media in 2011 and 2012. The record now contains about two,000 food items. The purpose is to be beneficial to regulators and purchasers, but due to the fact the database is absolutely free, we civilians can snoop around in it, as well.
Price is clearly a driver of deception. Saffron is the world's most pricey spice, and efforts to fake it date back to the ancient Greeks. The USP database lists 109 phony saffron substitutes, which includes marigold flowers, corn silk, gypsum, chalk and strands of cotton or plastic thread.
To a lay person, the expense cost savings involved in some of these foods scams appear hardly worth the hard work. Or maybe it is just that the margins in the meals industry can be so razor-thin that even a tiny revenue margin is enough to motivate fakery.
Get clouding agents, for example. They are utilized to give juices, jams and sports activities drinks an interesting cloudy appearance. Palm oil, which is inexpensive and foods safe, is commonly used. But the database information troubles with palm oil being replaced by phthalates in Taiwan. These are chemical compounds used in plastic manufacturing they're not meant for human consumption and there's concern that they could interfere with human hormones.
That variety of substitution might not be a concern in the United States. But we do have to deal with "maple" syrup that has no connection to a tree, and watered-down lemon juice. Juices which include apple and pomegranate are particularly vulnerable to fraud, Lipp says, and can be faked completely with water, sugar and citric acid.
Foods fraud sleuths can report incidents to the database.
" Every person in the provide chain needs to function collectively and share info and preserve vigilance," Lipp says. "We are unable to relinquish the security of our foods to adulterers."
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Hilda Baumol, 90, and Monte Malach, 85, shared their food recollections as component of Forgotten Meals of New York, an oral history task.
Hilda Baumol, 90, and Monte Malach, 85, shared their foods memories as element of Forgotten Meals of New York, an oral historical past task.
As Marcel Proust so famously documented, it is generally the easiest of foods that can carry us back to remembrances of factors past.
And so perhaps it can be not so surprising that, when freelance foods author Anne Noyes Saini began asking New York's elderly residents about their recollections of the food items of the city during the early-to-mid 20th century, it was humble meals like baked beans and the fruits offered by old -timey wagons that most often came to thoughts.
Saini's project, an ongoing oral background known as Forgotten Food items of New York City, is accessible by way of Soundcloud and was also featured final week on the storytelling web-site Narratively.
"It occurred to me to speak to these individuals who had lived in the city for a lengthy time... and attempt to get a sense from them about how dining establishments changed, and how even just shopping for groceries has modified," Saini tells The Salt.
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A pushcart fruit vendor at the Fulton fish market in New York City in 1943
A pushcart fruit vendor at the Fulton fish industry in New York City in 1943
In a single clip from the venture, Paul J. Hintersteiner, of the Washington Heights community in Manhattan, recalls buying for foods in the city prolonged just before supermarkets and even just before the days of contemporary refrigeration. Grocery buying was a multi- stop affair: fruits from traveling create carts, dairy from the milkman, and a giant block of ice from the "ice man " to retain perishables cold.
These days, New York is home to several of the best dining establishments in the globe and New Yorkers have turn out to be accustomed to routinely dining out. " It can be just consider -out all the time," Saini says. So she says she was astonished to find out that, between the persons she interviewed, consuming outside of the home was not often so commonplace.
People "who grew up in the '30s and '40s, and even the '50s and '60s when issues were much more prosperous men and women just didn't eat out" the way New Yorkers do currently, she says.
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A client selects his meals at a Horn & Hardart's Automat in New York City.
A purchaser selects his meals at a Horn & Hardart's Automat in New York City.
In one more audio clip, 90- yr - previous Hilda Baumol from Manhattan's Battery Park City community recalls that her family didn't consume at " elegant " eating places, opting instead for affordable eats from the "automat" an early rapid - foods dining encounter. Customers would use coins to retrieve meals from vending machines. The compartments had been replenished by staff behind the machine.
In his interview, Monte Malach, 85, recalls the mid-century disappearance of when -ubiquitous corner soda fountains, where folks could duck in for a rapid drink and listen to the Dodgers game.
Saini discovered participants for the undertaking with the support of Elders Share The Arts a non- profit that assists older people express themselves by way of art. In addition to accounts from lifelong New Yorkers, the 9 files Saini has posted so far also incorporate the food memories of immigrants adjusting to life in mid- 20 th century New York.
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A crowded soda fountain on Broadway in New York City, 1945.
A crowded soda fountain on Broadway in New York City, 1945.
You never hear ample from older folks in the mainstream media, Saini says. "Some of them are incredibly savvy, but I do not think you may come across them on Twitter."
For Saini, the critical component of this audio archive is continuing to preserve the voices of the past.
"You hear the texture of someone's voice, you hear their accent, you hear the way they get excited about some unique factor they are talking about. You can't genuinely get that with a print piece," she says.
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