Beef Heart: An Unexpected Meal That Spans Generations

The Bristol's Beef Heart

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The Bristol's Beef Heart

Beef heart it's what's for dinner! Well, if you're not a vegetarian. Stick with us on this.

All Things Considered is launching a Found Recipe series Thursday, asking cookbook authors, chefs and bloggers to tell us about the dishes that surprise and delight. These are recipes stumbled upon or created by accident or by necessity.

And what better way to start than beef heart a meat with a long history of consumption first out of necessity and now, more often, out of pleasure, at least in this country.

To see what all the fuss is about, we turned to cookbook authors Jody Eddy and Christine Carroll, authors of Come In, We're Closed, a book about the kind of kitchen surprises that crop up when chefs at the country's best eateries use leftovers to make meals for their staff.

Eddy and Carroll's Found Recipe comes from The Bristol, in Chicago. It's owned and operated by Chef Chris Pandel, who is a big fan of cooking cuts of meat that many modern eaters tend to avoid: offal, or organ meat.

We're talking livers, kidneys, intestines, hearts.

Yes, offal practically rhymes with awful, but please keep an open mind: Eddy and Carroll swear that Chef Pandel's recipe for Beef Heart and Watermelon Salad is a revelation. "I call it steak 2.0," says Carroll "it's all the beef flavor for a fraction of the price."

The heart is trimmed into three steaks, quickly seasoned and seared in a cast iron pan, then cut into thin slices and topped with watermelon, pickled grapes, and ricotta salata cheese.

But to try beef heart at home, Carroll had to get over some of the gore. "Even for me, an ex-line cook, beef heart is chillingly anatomical," she says, adding "but you're rewarded with a marvelous protein ... which tastes deeply beefy, with the faintest of mineral high notes and a slight chew similar to hanger steak."

More On Beef Hearts

Kitchen Window

Blood And Guts For Halloween

After she made the salad, Carroll ended up with some leftovers, which led to another Found Recipe. Since she had a baby just starting on solids, she decided to slowly poach the beef heart in chicken stock with some garlic. "When it was completely tender, I pureed it into the most mouth-wateringly silky smooth beefy baby food you could possibly imagine." Her baby was so smitten with it that she made the puree regularly and dubbed him "Captain Beef Heart" (not to be confused with the eccentric 1960s rocker).

Meanwhile, Eddy shared this story with her Minnesota grandmother. Turns out, she ate beef heart while growing up on a dairy farm in the 1940s, as did many folks back in the day when nose-to-tail eating in the U.S. was more necessity than fashion.

Eddy prepared the heart very much like Pandel's seared beef heart at The Bristol, but she added blueberries, caramelized onions and grated horseradish, as her grandmother directed. "As we ate," Eddy says, "I thought of Christine's young son and was really heartened by the appreciation the new generation seems to have for an ingredient the matriarch of my family had known about all along."

Listen to the All Things Considered interview with Carroll and Eddy above, and see their beef heart recipes below.

Beef Heart and Watermelon Salad

Most people assume beef heart shares a level of funk and fat similar to liver, kidney or gizzard. It decidedly does not. When seared and sliced thin as it is here, it could certainly be mistaken for pricier cuts of beef, but close observation would eventually reveal its telltale characteristic: the absence of any real grain to the flesh. Selling for about $2 a pound (if you can find a farmer to haul one to the market for you), it is a thrifty stand-in for steak.

Serves 4

1 pound beef heart, trimmed into 3 steaks, each approximately 4 inches by 6 inches (see Note below for trimming instructions)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 tablespoons canola oil

4 ounces ricotta salata cheese (or feta)

3 cups cubed watermelon (1 inch cubes)

1 cup whole Pickled Grapes and 1/4 cup of their pickling liquid, reserved separately (see following recipe)

1/2 bunch cilantro, leaves only, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives

1/4 cup thinly sliced Bread and Butter Jalapenos and 1/4 cup of their pickling liquid, reserved separately (see following recipe)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Arugula or spinach leaves, for serving (optional)

Generously season the heart steaks with salt and pepper. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat the oil over high heat. Once it is smoking, sear the steaks on one side until a golden brown crust has formed, about 3 minutes. Flip the steaks and sear for another 3 to 5 minutes, or until medium-rare (they should be bright red in the center, rimmed by about 1/4 inch of seared meat). Remove from the pan and let rest on a cutting board for 8 minutes.

Shave the ricotta salata with a vegetable peeler into strips and set aside. Combine the watermelon, grapes, cilantro, olives, and jalapenos in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the pickling liquids and olive oil.

After the heart steaks have rested, cut them into thin, long slices and arrange on a platter. Dress the watermelon salad with half the dressing, then season with salt, pepper, and additional dressing to taste. Spoon the watermelon salad over the beef heart and top with the ricotta salata. Serve while the beef heart is still slightly warm, with fresh arugula on the side, if desired, to catch the extra juices and dressing.

A Note On Trimming A Beef Heart

To turn a fresh or completely defrosted beef heart into steaks, first trim off any large amounts of hard, white fat and veinlike ventricles visible on the outside of the heart. Leaving some fat behind is fine, as it helps lubricate the lean meat. Split the heart open (but not in two) by cutting down one side, starting from the hole on the top. Using small, quick strokes of a sharp knife, release any internal structures holding the heart together to allow it to lie flat. Once it is butterflied, two-thirds of the heart will lie flat, and one-third will stick up from the center. Using this natural delineation, cut the heart into three "steaks," all approximately the same size. Now faced with more manageable pieces, trim off any fat and ventricles, including the slightly opaque silver skin on both sides of each steak. It helps to use the sharpest, thinnest knife you own. Continue trimming until you have uncovered the smooth, shiny, dark maroon flesh that lies underneath, at which point the heart steaks are ready for the pan.

Pickled Green Grapes

To accelerate the cure time for these unique pickles to a mere 24 hours, The Bristol calls for peeled grapes. (They use green table grapes, but any color will work as long as they are very crisp.) With no real shortcuts to quickly peel one, we can only assume this task falls to the lowest cook on the totem pole. If you find your Zen in repetitive kitchen tasks, by all means peel away, but slicing off the stem end of the grapes will work just as well (though they will require a few more days in the brine).

Yield: 1 quart

1 cup apple cider vinegar

1/2 cup rice vinegar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 small cinnamon stick

1 1/2 pounds seedless green grapes

Scrub a 1 quart glass jar and its lid in hot soapy water. Rinse well and air-dry.

In a small pot combine the vinegars, sugar, cinnamon stick, and 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer until the sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature.

Wash and dry the grapes, discarding any moldy or mushy suspects. Remove the stems and, using a small, sharp knife, cut a thin slice off the stem end to expose the flesh. Cram as many grapes as will fit snugly into the jar.

When the liquid is cool, ladle it over the grapes almost to the top of the jar, making sure to include the cinnamon stick. Screw on the lid, label the contents, and refrigerate for a minimum of 72 hours. The longer the grapes pickle, the better they taste (but the less crisp they become), and they can be stored in your refrigerator for up to 2 months.

Bread And Butter Jalapenos

This pickled jalapeno recipe in the "bread and butter" style as sweet as it is sour was invented after a summer market windfall left The Bristol with more than 200 pounds of the spicy peppers.

Yield: 1 quart

16 to 20 green jalapeno peppers

3/4 cup white wine vinegar

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon whole yellow mustard seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole coriander seeds

1/2 teaspoon whole fennel seeds

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns

1 bay leaf

Scrub a 1 quart glass jar and its lid in hot soapy water. Rinse well and air-dry.

Wash and dry the jalapenos. Prick each one several times with a fork. Stuff the jar with as many peppers as you can.

In a small pot, combine the remaining ingredients with 3/4 cup water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until the sugar is dissolved, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and carefully pour the hot liquid and spices over the jalapenos to almost the top of the jar. (A large-mouthed funnel may be useful here.)

Seal the jar tightly with the lid, label with the date of creation, and refrigerate for a minimum of 1 week. The brine becomes spicier over time and makes excellent vinegar for dressings. The peppers can be stored for up to 2 months in the refrigerator.

Storage: 2 to 3 months in the fridge.

Poached Beef Heart Baby Food

2 cups sodium-free beef or chicken stock

1 pound beef heart, trimmed and cut into 1 inch cubes

1 clove garlic, sliced

Pinch of salt (optional)

Over high heat, bring the stock to a boil in a medium saute pan. Add the beef heart and enough cool water to submerge the pieces. Briefly return the liquid to a boil then lower the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Add the optional garlic; cover the pan with a lid. Poach on the stove for 30 minutes or until the pieces are completely tender and easily pierced with a knife. Remove the beef heart from the stock, reserving both separately and cooling for 10 minutes.

Add the cooked beef heart, 1/2 cup of stock and a pinch of salt to a large blender or food processor. Carefully blend into a smooth puree, adding more cooled stock as necessary to achieve the desired consistency. If you accidentally overshoot on the stock and the puree becomes watery, add boiled sweet potato, overcooked pasta, or powdered brown rice cereal to thicken it again. (Reserve any remaining stock for soups, stews, or to rehydrate legumes.) And if you desire an even smoother consistency, push the puree through a fine mesh sieve discarding any lumpy solids left behind.

Decant the baby food into a clean bowl and cover the surface with plastic wrap. Once cooled to a "baby appropriate" temperature, serve in generous portions to your adventurous eater.

Extra puree can be poured into ice cube trays, covered, and stored in the freezer for up to 3 months.

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Blood And Guts For Halloween

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October 24, 2012

As the father of two rambunctious boys (ages 4 and 7), Halloween is a holy day at my house. Kids have forced me to shed the cynicism that I associated with this holiday, and I've fully embraced the celebration. Just don't ask me to wear a costume.

I've heard from parents who have painstakingly re-created their grandmother's mac and cheese for their children only to have them demand the day-glo orange kind that looks more like a bad science experiment than food. So, trying to get them to eat blood pudding and beef hearts is going to take salesmanship.

Each year, we invite neighborhood friends and their kids to party at our house before trick-or-treating. I prepare a meal with a Halloween theme that both kids and adults will eat. One year I made a roast chicken with enough garlic to choke a vampire, and served roasted fingers and monkey brains on the side. (Don't tell the kids that it was fingerling potatoes and cauliflower, since they probably think vegetables are gross.)

Imagine the look on my wife's face when I told her that for our Halloween party this year, the menu is titled "Blood and Guts A Celebration of Offal."

Anyone with kids knows that getting them to try a new food is all in how you pitch it. They don't care about eating seasonally or sustainably. They're not interested in authentic. I've heard from parents who have painstakingly re-created their grandmother's mac and cheese for their children only to have them demand the day-glo orange kind that looks more like a bad science experiment than food. So, trying to get them to eat blood pudding and beef hearts is going to take salesmanship.

Not that eating offal is a fringe idea these days. Fine-dining restaurants are serving nose-to-tail cuisine and charging a lot of money for it. One of the fiercest proponents of whole-beast cooking is San Francisco-based chef Chris Cosentino. The executive chef of Incanto, he is known for serving dishes such as lamb heart tartare.

About The Author

Peter Ogburn is a radio and television producer who loves food and cooking for his family. Originally from South Carolina, he has a soft spot for a good biscuit, pork products and his mama. He will go to great lengths to find out why we eat the things we eat. He also enjoys daring his two young sons to eat things they might otherwise find gross. He lives in suburban Maryland with his wife, boys and giant dog.

"When I first started serving these cuts of meat nine years ago," he told me recently, "people thought I was crazy and trying to re-create the show Fear Factor. I found it sad and offensive that people were marginalizing offal cuts as pure 'peasant food' eaten only out of desperation. I was hoping to change that by reintroducing both the flavorful cuts and preparation techniques from the past on my menu."

Humans have eaten these cuts since the beginning of time. If you eat meat, you should eat the whole animal. Why waste flavorful innards in favor of boneless, skinless chops?

While most good butchers can get you organ meats, animal blood is a different story. Have you ever asked someone with a straight face, "Can you get me a gallon of fresh pig's blood?" It made grown men wearing aprons stained with animal blood and viscera look at me like I was the gross one. Reputable and willing butchers still have to follow FDA regulations that control the flow of blood from farm to slaughterhouse to butcher to consumer.

I found a small-town butcher/meat market that slaughters its own hogs twice a week. They control the pork product from beginning to end, so they allowed me to visit a slaughter and catch the fresh blood in my own container.

These may seem like extreme measures to get your hands on something that many slaughterhouses just let run down the drain. Some recipes I found said that frozen or coagulated pig's blood is readily available at ethnic markets and could be used, but the consensus was that nothing beats the taste of farm-fresh blood. Plus, the experience of talking to butchers and farmers connected me to my recipes much more than grilling up some prepackaged chicken breasts I bought at the supermarket.

I tested the sweetbreads on my boys, and they were so smitten that they have requested I make them for every Halloween party from here on out. You never know what kids will go for. If they like steak, they'll probably like beef hearts. If they like chicken nuggets, they'll love fried sweetbreads. If they like sausage, there's a good chance they'll eat the blood cake. If they don't appreciate your efforts, don't worry. They'll be asleep before you, and you can steal some of their candy.

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Recipe: Anticuchos (Beef Heart On Skewers)

There isn't much difference between beef heart and a steak you'd order at a restaurant. Think about it. The heart is a muscle just like the tenderloin. The heart is a lean cut of meat. The lack of fat means that it lacks some flavor, so a spicy marinade helps cure any blandness. The one thing to avoid in this dish is overcooking it. Beyond that, just practice patience. Take the time to trim and prepare the meat, let it marinate thoroughly, and then blast it on a hot grill. This is a traditional recipe that will require some spice hunting, but will pay off with an unusual heat.

Makes 10 servings

1/2 cup aji amarillo paste*

1/2 cup aji de panca paste*

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

2 teaspoons salt

2 teaspoons ground cumin

2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper

5 medium cloves garlic, minced

1 cup distilled white vinegar

6 pounds beef heart, cleaned and cut 1 1/2-inch-by-2-inch that can be easily skewered

Combine all of the ingredients except the beef heart in a resealable container and mix well. I turned a sealed bag over and over several times to mix well.

Add the beef heart and seal the bag, pressing as much air out of it as possible. Use your hands to push the marinade into the meat. Refrigerate at least 4 hours and preferably overnight.

When ready to cook, soak several 12-inch-long bamboo skewers in water for 30 minutes, or use metal skewers.

Prepare the grill for direct heat. If using a gas grill, preheat to high (650 degrees). If using a charcoal grill, light the charcoal or wood briquettes. When briquettes are ready, distribute them evenly under the cooking area. For a hot fire, you should be able to hold your hand about 6 inches above the coals for 1 or 2 seconds. Have ready a spray water bottle for taming any flames. Lightly coat the grill rack with oil and place it on the grill.

Push 4 or 5 pieces of seasoned meat close together, end to end, on each skewer, reserving the marinade. Grill for 3 to 4 minutes (for medium-rare), turning the skewers as needed and using the marinade to brush on the meat.

Serve hot.

*Available at Latino markets and online.

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Recipe: Chicken-Fried Sweetbreads

Remember when you were a kid, you lived on chicken fingers? These crispy nuggets are the grown-up version of those. This recipe is a hybrid of chicken nuggets that I make for my kids and the chicken-fried steak that my very Southern Maw Maw would make for me on our last night of a trip to her house in Birmingham, Ala. Sweetbreads should be soaked in a briny milk solution before cooking to help draw out impurities while also imparting some flavor.

Makes 4 appetizer servings

2 cups whole milk

4 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt

Several dashes hot sauce (optional)

1 pound veal sweetbreads

6 cups canola oil

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons paprika

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 teaspoons fresh cracked black pepper

2 large eggs

Honey and hot sauce, for dipping

Mix milk, 4 tablespoons salt, hot sauce (if using) and sweetbreads in a resealable container that will hold the contents and keep the sweetbreads submerged in the milk brine. Soak overnight.

Remove sweetbreads from milk brine and rinse. In a saucepan, place them in enough water to cover and poach over low-medium heat 5 minutes. Remove from water and let cool. When cool enough to handle, peel membrane from the outside of the meat and cut into nuggets.

In a large frying pan, heat canola oil to 350 degrees.

Mix flour, paprika, garlic powder, pepper and remaining 2 teaspoons of salt in a bowl for dredging. Beat the eggs in a separate bowl.

Once the oil reaches 350 degrees, dredge sweetbread chunks in the egg, then in the seasoned flour. Coat them evenly, shake off the excess flour, then carefully drop into the hot oil. Depending on the size of the nuggets, you should fry them for about 3 minutes per side.

Serve hot and with a mix of hot sauce and honey on the side.

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Recipe: Blood Cake With Fried Egg

This recipe is adapted from The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating by Britain's Fergus Henderson (Harper Collins 2004). Henderson runs the acclaimed St. John Restaurant in London, where he has championed the utilization of offal since 1995. The hardest part of this recipe is getting your hands on fresh pig's blood. If you can't get it, you can find it frozen at some ethnic markets. You will want to re-liquefy the coagulated blood with an immersion blender if it is in a solid state. Don't let the name fool you. This is, essentially, blood sausage without the casing. It has surprising soothing qualities, this dish.

Makes 1 cake, about 8 servings

1 large onion, peeled and finely chopped

6 cloves of garlic, finely chopped

Duck fat (which can be found at specialty food stores)

Half a bunch of marjoram, leaves only, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground mace

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1 quart fresh pig's blood

3/4 cup coarse yellow cornmeal

Sea salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/2 pound fatback cut into 1/4-inch cubes

16 large eggs, preferably free-range

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a pan large enough to hold all the ingredients, sweat the onion and garlic in 3 tablespoons duck fat until clear, soft and giving, but not brown. Add marjoram, spices, blood and cornmeal and stir on a gentle heat until blood starts to thicken to a runny porridge consistency. Do not let it cook and set. It has to have a certain density, or the fatback will sink to the bottom when added.

At this point (not for the squeamish cook), taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary. Remove pan from heat and add chopped fatback. Stir to spread the fatty chunks through the blood and decant the mixture onto a plastic wrap-lined loaf pan. Cover with aluminum foil and place on a flat folded kitchen towel in a deep roasting pan or dish. Surround with water close to the top of the loaf pan without going over and bake 1 1/2 hours. Check that a skewer or a sharp knife comes out clean, then remove the pan and allow the cake to cool and set (wrapped in plastic wrap, it keeps very well in the refrigerator).

Once firm, slice into half-inch-thick slices. Heat 1 large and 1 small frying pan, add 2 tablespoons duck fat and gently fry slices of blood cake until heated through. In the other pan, fry a pair of eggs per person. To serve, place 2 slices of fried blood cake on each plate and top with fried eggs. Serve immediately.

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Recipe: Chocolate Blood Pudding

This is a recipe adapted from one by Chris Cosentino, executive chef of San Francisco's Incanto restaurant. Essentially, this is a chocolate panna cotta that is fortified with pork blood. The cooked blood steeps in the cream to give up its flavor and will help thicken the final product. Be careful not to press too hard during the straining process to ensure a smooth texture.

Makes 4 servings

3 1/3 cups heavy cream, plus 1 teaspoon

3/4 cup sugar

1 cup pig's blood

2 tablespoons cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon cracked black pepper

3 1/2 sheets gelatin

Peel of a small lemon

In a medium nonreactive saucepan, combine 2 1/3 cups of the cream, sugar, pig's blood, cocoa powder, ground cinnamon and cracked black pepper. (Save 1 cup of the cream aside to bloom the sheet gelatin.) Bring mixture to a boil, stirring gently. Remove from the heat and let the flavor develop by steeping the liquid like tea.

Bloom the gelatin in the remaining cup of cream for 5 minutes, or until soft. Strain the steeped liquid and add the gelatin and cream. Strain the final mixture through a fine-meshed sieve and pour into 6 4-ounce ramekins that have been chilled and sprayed with oil spray. Allow to set in the refrigerator for 4 hours.

To serve, dip each ramekin into hot water and gently shake the panna cotta free from its mold onto a serving plate.

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