Thursday, February 28, 2013

Dispatch From Poutine Fest, Chicago's 'Love Letter' To Canada

Missy Ruminski prepares The Peasantry's entry. Note that poutine is not only a delicious snack but also a source of light and warmth in the universe. Enlarge picture i

Missy Ruminski prepares The Peasantry's entry. Note that poutine is not only a scrumptious snack but also a supply of light and warmth in the universe.

Missy Ruminski prepares The Peasantry's entry. Note that poutine is not only a delicious snack but also a source of light and warmth in the universe.

Missy Ruminski prepares The Peasantry's entry. Note that poutine is not only a delicious snack but also a supply of light and warmth in the universe.

There is no better mystery in America than this: Why is poutine not offered everywhere ?

French fries with cheese curds, covered in gravy there's almost nothing much more American than this Canadian dish which is not really American. And when you can locate it stateside more simply than you utilised to, poutine really should be in every restaurant in the country, and in all probability someplace on our flag.

For a single day in Chicago, at least, poutine gets its due, at the Poutine Fest. There is no distinct poutine connection to Chicago, except that we like points that are perfect.

The creators contact the festival "the 1st of many love letters exchanged in between a tipsy, slurring Chicago and picturesque French Canada." It can be also 11 restaurants battling for poutine supremacy, and for a trophy with a gravy boat on best.

Enlarge picture i

The "King of Poutine" trophy

The "King of Poutine" trophy

When I stroll into the back room of Haymarket Pub & Brewery, exactly where the festival was held last Sunday, the 1st issue I observe is there are plenty of beards, and the air itself has been deep fried.

I meet up with my pal Dan Pashman, who hosts the Sporkful podcast and whom you hear from time to time on Weekend Edition Sunday. He believes poutine would be greater if it were served with the gravy on the side, so you could mete out great bites and avoid sogginess. I inform him you could also inquire for a bunch of cans of paint as an alternative of Starry Evening, but I will believe in van Gogh on it.

The Publican is one particular of my preferred Chicago restaurants, so I'm delighted to see they've acquired a station. But they are having some "electrical troubles " and aren't serving but. Two small pieces of chicken sit, rather sadly, in a lukewarm deep fryer.

A poutine from El Ideas, which tastes way better than it photographs. Enlarge image i

A poutine from El Concepts, which tastes way better than it photographs.

A poutine from El Ideas, which tastes way better than it photographs.

A poutine from El Ideas, which tastes way superior than it images.

I start with a really fancy poutine from El Strategies. It can be got duck sausage and foie gras. And these very little green items on prime are just there as a reminder there are men and women who've produced additional healthful selections than you, and they're possibly deeply unhappy.

But is the foie gras overkill?

" It can be cheating," says El Tips chef Phillip Foss.

It is tasty, but I believe it really is a little above the best for a dish most most likely to be eaten drunkenly at 4 in the morning. Foss isn't so certain.

"Depends on what you are drinking."

Art Jackson of Pleasant House Bakery prepares his take, which uses skirt steak, and chunky British chips in the place of fries. Enlarge image i

Artwork Jackson of Pleasant Home Bakery prepares his consider, which makes use of skirt steak, and chunky British chips in the area of fries.

Art Jackson of Pleasant House Bakery prepares his take, which uses skirt steak, and chunky British chips in the place of fries.

Artwork Jackson of Pleasant House Bakery prepares his consider, which uses skirt steak, and chunky British chips in the location of fries.

Poutine just appears like one particular of people items that are not invented so substantially as discovered. These issues are just meant to be collectively, like coffee and cream, or The Beatles.

I try the Haymarket's consider : smoked ham hock, Andouille sausage and lemon-soaked apples. I inquire the younger woman getting ready it if she thinks poutine is the up coming major food trend. Could it substitute the cupcake? Could it substitute bacon? She laughs, as if to say bacon is not going anywhere. Bacon is permanently, like a diamond.

I consider one more pass by the Publican's station. No luck.

Little Market's poutine served in its traditional dish, a seven-passenger boat. Enlarge picture i

Minor Market's poutine served in its conventional dish, a 7 -passenger boat.

Little Market's poutine served in its traditional dish, a seven-passenger boat.

Tiny Market's poutine served in its conventional dish, a 7 -passenger boat.

If I manufactured a list of the reasons the Midwest is objectively superior to the rest of the globe, the ready availability of deep-fried cheese curds would be proper at the leading. So when I see that Little Marketplace is deep-frying its curds before putting them in its poutine, I head appropriate above.

It is a formidable poutine: In addition to the fried curds, it's acquired red wine-braised short ribs.

Says chef Ryan Poli, "We contact it Vladimir Poutine."

The more poutine you eat, the more useful the iPhone's panorama function becomes.

The far more poutine you eat, the more beneficial the iPhone's panorama function gets.

Four or five poutine boats in, I commence to wish I'd been pacing myself. I'm slowing down. I head over to test Red Door's entry it really is got duck confit, chorizo verde and pickled jalapeno. Their poutine is right in between Mexico and Canada, just like us.

I am performed. Completely total. I could not eat another bite. These are the lies I'm telling myself when Ryan from Very little Market place yells out, "The Publican has poutine! Kind a line!" Appreciate of poutine, you see, is larger than competitors.

When zooming in on his iPhone to see if this picture was in focus, the photographer left two pretty gross chicken grease streaks on the screen. Enlarge picture i

When zooming in on his iPhone to see if this image was in concentrate, the photographer left two pretty gross chicken grease streaks on the display.

When zooming in on his iPhone to see if this picture was in focus, the photographer left two pretty gross chicken grease streaks on the screen.

When zooming in on his iPhone to see if this picture was in emphasis, the photographer left two very gross chicken grease streaks on the display.

The Publican's take has fried chicken tail and blue cheese. It is really worth the wait. I am too complete to test the entry that would at some point win, a wild boar and pickled red onion concoction from The Gage. It'll be days until finally I'm once again hungry ample to be disappointed about missing it, but that day will come.

Ian Chillag is a producer/humorist with Wait Wait... Don't Inform Me!


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China's Horses Could End Up In Russia's Kabobs

China is not a great area to be a horse, if your target is to stay away from ending up as the Russian kabobs identified as shashlik.

China exports the most horse meat to the global market, when Russia has the biggest appetite for horseflesh, in accordance to a new infographic on the continuing European scandal in excess of horse meat offered as beef.

Mike Stewart, editor of the newish blog Australian Foods Security Information, tried to create a submit untangling the numerous threads of the European horse meat scandal. "But it was all so complicated and perplexing, it appeared like the simplest way to clarify it was to do an infographic," he informed The Salt.

So he dug into information from the U.N.'s Food and Agriculture Organization on horse meat production, import and export, to discover that some of the most significant gamers in the worldwide marketplace are not in Europe at all.

If you'd fancy a much more Eurocentric version, England's The Guardian did a wonderful task monitoring the (legal) movement of horseflesh via Europe. Polpettine, anybody ? The Italians imported twice as significantly horse meat as the French in 2012.

Horsemeat Scandal [Infographic]
By means of : The Australian Institute of Foods Security

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Wednesday, February 27, 2013

Budweiser Might Seem Watery, But It Exams At Total Power , Lab Says

Plaintiffs accuse Anheuser-Busch of misleading consumers about the alcohol content in Bud Light, Budweiser and other products. The brewer denies the claims. Enlarge image i

Plaintiffs accuse Anheuser-Busch of misleading customers about the alcohol content in Bud Light, Budweiser and other items. The brewer denies the claims.

Plaintiffs accuse Anheuser-Busch of misleading consumers about the alcohol content in Bud Light, Budweiser and other products. The brewer denies the claims.

Plaintiffs accuse Anheuser-Busch of misleading buyers about the alcohol information in Bud Light, Budweiser and other goods. The brewer denies the claims.

Update at 7 :35 p.m. ET: Beer Is At Complete Strength, Tests Say

Samples of Budweiser and other Anheuser-Busch InBev beers have been identified to be in line with their advertised alcohol articles, in accordance to lab tests conducted at NPR's request. We have rewritten portions of this post to reflect that new details.

Anheuser-Busch is accused of misleading beer drinkers about the alcohol information of Budweiser and other merchandise, in a series of class-action lawsuits filed in federal court.

"We're alleging that Anheuser-Busch systematically waters down its goods," says Josh Boxer, lead attorney for the plaintiffs.

The brewer says the situation has no merit.

Like a lot of mainstream U.S. beers, Budweiser has prolonged been accused of tasting watery and minimal -powered in comparison with solid and flavorful American craft and European traditional brews. But the lawsuit's main contention is not that a crime towards taste has been committed.

The plaintiffs allege intentional "mislabeling" of at least ten beers' alcohol content material, right after the brewer extra water to boost the amount of beer created from raw supplies. They are seeking compensation for consumers.

"How would you really feel if you paid premium prices for premium gas and were advised that in fact, they have been providing you the reduced -grade fuel ?" Boxer asks.

The lawsuit isn't going to cite independent exams of the beers in query. Boxer says his data comes from former Anheuser-Busch workers.

Peter Kraemer, Anheuser-Busch InBev's vice president of brewing and provide, calls the claims " entirely false," in an e-mail to Bloomberg Information. "Our beers are in total compliance with all alcohol labeling laws," Kraemer says.

Exams performed on Budweiser, Bud Light Lime, and Michelob Ultra this week by San Diego's White Labs found that "the alcohol percentages inside the cans have been the identical as what was stated on the can," says analytical laboratory professional Kara Taylor.

"Some of them had been spot-on. Some others deviated, plus or minus, inside a hundredth of a percentage" well inside of federal limits, she says.

Laboratory analysis of Budweiser found the beer was within federal rules in matching its advertised 5 percent alcohol content by a hundredth of a percentage.

Laboratory examination of Budweiser observed the beer was inside of federal principles in matching its advertised five % alcohol material by a hundredth of a percentage.

When advised that a lab commission by NPR had examined several Budweiser samples and identified them to match their labeled alcohol content material, Boxer dismissed our test results, confident that when he will get his hands on Anheuser-Busch's inner testing, he'll nonetheless have a powerful situation.

On Twitter and other social media, news of the lawsuit was greeted by jeers and jokes about watered-down beer. But the practice of adding water to beer just before it is packaged is widespread amid substantial brewers. Referred to as large -gravity brewing, it entails blending a potent brew with water.

The method is extremely effective and it can imply higher revenue for firms like Anheuser-Busch InBev, the world's largest brewer.

"In high -gravity brewing, you can make a lot additional beer by stretching the beer that you have fermented," explains Dan Kopman, co-founder of Schlafly Beer, a craft brewery in Anheuser-Busch's ancestral residence of St. Louis. (AB InBev is now headquartered in Belgium.)

Kopman says that incorporating water can support a brewer "stretch" the quantity of the final item by at least 5 or 10 percent with no changing the beer's flavor.

"This is mainly carried out in very substantial breweries, and it will work nicely for lighter lager beers," he tells The Salt. "I would assume that all big brewers in the globe substantial -gravity brew. It is not distinctive to AB."

As an instance, Kopman says, Anheuser-Busch may brew higher -gravity Bud, with an alcohol information of around five. five % following fermentation.

"Then in packaging they will add deaerated water," he says, to accomplish the desired flavor and alcohol information. Deaerated water has lower oxygen ranges, to enable the beer " retain " on the shelves.

Brewers who use this course of action keep track of alcohol articles closely most also confirm it with a lab test soon after packaging.

The class-action suit accuses Anheuser-Busch of purposefully deceiving customers, and claims that the practice of watering down beer was "vigorously accelerated" following Anheuser-Busch merged with InBev to form a mammoth global corporation in 2008.

Two plaintiffs in the California suit, Nina Giampaoli and John Elbert, say they frequently obtained Budweiser in excess of the past four years, taking the "stated percentage of alcohol into account" when they made a decision to purchase the beer.

But Todd Ahlstrom, the founder of BeerAdvocate, says that even though buyers want to know approximately how considerably alcohol is in a beer, the situation is silly.

"I will not consider it actually matters with most men and women out there," he says.


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Germans Are Drinking Significantly less Beer These Days, But Why?

A waiter carries beer mugs during the 2012 Oktoberfest in Munich. Enlarge image i

A waiter carries beer mugs in the course of the 2012 Oktoberfest in Munich.

A waiter carries beer mugs during the 2012 Oktoberfest in Munich.

A waiter carries beer mugs through the 2012 Oktoberfest in Munich.

For centuries, Germany has been synonymous with beer. Vacationers flock from all around the planet to consider element in the country's quite a few beer festivals, which includes the renowned Oktoberfest.

But officials say the German beer tradition is waning. A latest government report discovered Germans drink much less beer now than they did a generation in the past. To locate out why, I visited some pubs and brew experts in Berlin and heard a assortment of explanations.

At the Max and Moritz tavern, in a former working -class neighborhood of the German capital, beer after flowed as freely as the nearby Spree River. The pub is named immediately after the characters of a beloved children's tale whose images adorn the walls and shelves, but it's the beer that this tavern is well-known for.

As in most classic German pubs, neighborhood brews are served right here from taps or in bottles. On the night I visited, most customers had been drinking wine or soda pop.

1 of these consuming a soda was my husband's friend, Jan Katzmarczyk, a German attorney who has sworn off alcohol for Lent. Even when he does drink, the 41- year - outdated says, he rarely orders a beer any longer maybe two a week, but not more.

He took us to many very well - regarded pubs in Berlin to see what his country's statistics company is reporting: that Germans in spite of consuming 2 1 / 2 billion gallons of beer last year are consuming significantly less beer now than at any time considering that 1990.

" Persons may drink significantly less simply because it has lots of calories," Katzmarczyk says. " People are pondering much about their bellies, and beer is not assisting."

At a nearby tavern called Zur Kleinen Markthalle, or " little market place hall," there have been far more beer drinkers. But bartender Andreas Varrelman confirmed what the government is reporting: Fewer patrons buy beer these days.

He blamed the decrease on Germany's economic crisis, saying he thinks men and women are much more reluctant to go out and devote money, like on beer.

Marc-Oliver Huhnholz, spokesman for the German Brewers Association, says the waning curiosity in beer is far more about improvements to German society.

"We have a shift of the population the people develop into older and less younger are following," he says. That implies there are fewer Germans in younger age groups, which are much more usually linked with beer- consuming.

Huhnholz adds that there are also fewer jobs in fields once connected with drinking beer, like mining and development. "When the folks have created a property or something like this, they opened the very first bottle at 8 o'clock in the morning," he says. "Now we have computer operate, we have much much more mobility, so people are driving vehicles."

And that suggests less drinking of alcohol, be it beer or anything at all else.

Regardless of the lower, Huhnholz notes that Germany is still between the top rated three beer- consuming countries in Europe. The 28 gallons of beer per capita Germans consume each and every year far exceeds what Americans drink 21 gallons per capita.

In purchase to lure much more Germans back to beer- consuming, Huhnholz's brewers are experimenting with new goods, including tasty nonalcoholic beers and fruit-flavored beers, as effectively as uncommon mixes, like beer with cappuccino.


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Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Pastagate: Quebec Agency Criticized For Targeting Foreign Phrases On Menus

Enlarge image i

In Quebec, a restaurant's use of the word "pasta" on its menu sparked a government agency into action. Officials who enforce rules that guard French as the official language now say "exotic" words can be permitted in some circumstances.

In Quebec, a restaurant's use of the word "pasta" on its menu sparked a government agency into action. Officials who enforce principles that guard French as the official language now say "exotic" words can be allowed in some scenarios.

A government company in Quebec, Canada, has come below extreme criticism following attempting to get pasta stricken from a restaurant's menu. The move had nothing to do with the food : Officials mentioned Italian words such as pasta, calamari, and antipasto should be replaced with French words to conform with the law.

Immediately after Quebec's office that enforces the predominance of the French language sent an official observe of infractions against Quebec's Language Charter to the Buonanotte restaurant earlier this month, co- proprietor Massimo Lecas posted a photo of his menu, with "pasta" and other offending phrases circled.

The incident led to disbelief, outrage, a barrage of jokes, and finally, a promise from Quebec Language Minister Diane De Courcy that her company would critique how it enforces a law requiring that no language requires precedence over French.

In a separate incident, officials also asked a Montreal restaurant named Brit Chips to rename its signature dish fish and chips poisson frit, et frites.

For its portion, the Quebec government has admitted that its agents had acted with an " excess of zeal," even though it maintained that they have been responding to complaints from citizens. The agency now says Italian phrases this kind of as "pasta" can be permitted on menus.

"If it can be only the identify of the dish, if it can be an exotic title in the language of origin, that would not be a difficulty," OQLF spokesman Martin Bergeron advised the CBC. That could open the possibility of exceptions for some dishes, the report concludes, supplied they have exotic names such as "fish and chips."

The flap sparked a flurry of information stories. And on Twitter, the pastagate hashtag attracted everything from serious debate to jokes about the language police "gnocching" at people's doors.

To many of his supporters, Lecas tweeted a common response: "Grazie...oooops MERCI!"

Monday, Lecas explained that he received an official letter in French, of course notifying him that the inquiry into his restaurant's menu was now closed.

Despite the agency's retreat from its first position, the publicity generated by "pastagate" led other restaurateurs to come out with their personal stories of the government's efforts to cleanse them of languages other than French.

At Brasserie Holder, owner Maurice Holder tells the CBC that the Quebec company faulted a grocery checklist, written on a kitchen chalkboard. While words this kind of as salade, oeuf, and sucre passed muster, "steak" would need to have to be replaced by bifteck, he was advised.

"The restaurateur mentioned he was also asked to cover up print on a scorching water switch that read 'on/off,'" the CBC reviews."When a initial layer of opaque tape failed to cover up the English words, Holder said he was told to add a second layer of tape."

"I enjoy Quebec... but it's not receiving any less complicated," David McMillan, proprietor of Montreal's Joe Beef, tells National Publish. McMillan speaks both English and French. "My wife is French, my organization partner is French, my little ones go to French college, but I just get so unhappy and depressed and wonder, what is incorrect with these individuals ?"

As Canada's CTV reports, an agency's examination of media coverage of "pastagate" led to "60 occasions far more coverage in information reviews outdoors the province than a current trip in which Premier Pauline Marois attempted to drum up foreign company for Quebec."


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To Make An Empire, Hold The Anchovies

Located north of Lima, Peru, the Caral-Supe settlement was the ancient home of the Norte Chico people, a civilization almost as old as the Egyptians. Enlarge picture i

Positioned north of Lima, Peru, the Caral-Supe settlement was the ancient home of the Norte Chico men and women, a civilization practically as outdated as the Egyptians.

Located north of Lima, Peru, the Caral-Supe settlement was the ancient home of the Norte Chico people, a civilization almost as old as the Egyptians.

Situated north of Lima, Peru, the Caral-Supe settlement was the ancient home of the Norte Chico men and women, a civilization just about as outdated as the Egyptians.

Megalomaniacs, consider yourselves warned. Anchovies will not help you create your empire. To rule prolonged and prosper, serve corn.

That's the word from archaeologists who say they've solved a mystery that has been puzzling their colleagues for the past 40 many years : How did some of the earliest Peruvians control to make a robust civilization without corn the crop that fueled other fantastic civilizations of the Americas, like the Maya?

The Norte Chico folks, who lived some five,000 many years ago, built a thriving civilization but from the archaeological proof previously accessible, it looked like they did it solely on anchovies. And anybody who has ever nibbled an anchovy on a pizza is aware of there is not a great deal of meat on people small bones.

Would that have given the Norte Chico adequate oomph to construct the monumental architecture they left behind, including dozens of huge communities with big earthen platforms and circular ceremonial plazas, some forty meters across?

A view of one of the ceremonial plazas at the Caral-Supe archaeological site. Enlarge image i

A see of one of the ceremonial plazas at the Caral-Supe archaeological site.

A view of one of the ceremonial plazas at the Caral-Supe archaeological site.

A view of a single of the ceremonial plazas at the Caral-Supe archaeological web site.

" Think about anchovy at each and every meal you ate," says Jonathan Haas, an archaeologist at the Area Museum in Chicago. "The challenge with anchovies is if you are going to get calories out of them, you have to consume a great deal of them, and it is not a balanced diet regime."

Agriculture is deemed the engine of civilization, and in the Americas, that signifies corn.

However quite little proof of corn consumption had been observed in Peru dating back to the time of the Norte Chico, Haas and his colleagues figured these men and women just had to be consuming corn. So they made the decision to seem tougher.

Initially, they searched Norte Chico archaeological internet sites north of Lima for proof that the ancient Peruvians had been increasing corn. They observed lots of outdated maize pollen.

Then, they went looking for pollen on the stone tools the residents of Norte Chico employed to cook. They looked beneath the microscope, and "lo and behold, the big bulk of the tools are being applied to course of action maize," Haas tells The Salt.

Eventually, they looked in the fossilized human poop identified in the web sites. They found anchovy bones and lots of corn starch. And which is not all: Turns out, sweet potatoes had been the 2nd most well-known carbohydrate, and guava the most well-liked supply of sugar. (You can study a good deal from fossilized feces.)

Haas says this "corn principles " thesis may be controversial, but he thinks his team's data are sturdy adequate to hold up. The work was published in the Proceedings of the Nationwide Academy of Sciences.

"Rather than being a maritime- based society, it can be an agriculturally based mostly society," Haas says. "South America then falls in line with the rest of the civilizations of the globe."


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Sunday, February 17, 2013

Fried Chicken And Waffles: The Dish The South Denied As Its Own ?

Chicken and waffles: so delicious, yet so controversial. Enlarge image i

Chicken and waffles: so delicious, but so controversial.

Chicken and waffles: so delicious, yet so controversial.

Chicken and waffles: so scrumptious, however so controversial.

Phone fried chicken and waffles a classic Southern food, and you're liable to get accused of a damn Yankee conspiracy.

That is what we found out last week, when our story about the dangers of a Southern fried diet plan prompted several of you with roots in the South to protest will not pin that dish on us! Here is a sampling of the comments we obtained :

" I'm a southerner, and I have by no means heard of fried chicken on a waffle!"

"I live in the deep, deep, deep South and I have by no means observed them in any of the 'soul' foods destinations I consume."

"I grew up in the South. The 1st time I heard of fried chicken and waffles was through a summer time working in LA... definitely an LA thing and not southern issue."

"This is a Yankee-fied interpretation of a southern staple."

Your visceral response acquired us questioning : Have been we wrong to assign this blend of carbs and fried goodness a Southern backstory? We put the question to John T. Edge, the director of the Southern Foodways Alliance and author of Fried Chicken: An American Story.

" It can be a Southern dish," Edge tells The Salt, "but a Southern dish as soon as or twice eliminated from the South."

" It can be a dish most popular between expatriate, African-American Southerners," he adds, "a dish most popular amongst Southerners now residing in urban locations, regardless of whether that be the urban South or the urban West, in the case of Los Angeles, or the urban North, in the case of New York."

So is it breakfast or dinner? Edge says there are no rules except that the chicken must be on the bone. He prefers the dish with dark meat, a drizzle of maple syrup and a hit of Tabasco.

As Edge recounts in his guide , both the East and West coasts get credit score for popularizing fried chicken and waffles. In the 1930s, the combo was a signature offering at Well's Supper Club a Harlem haunt that was a favorite of Sammy Davis Jr. and Nat King Cole. Out in Los Angeles, Roscoe's chain of soul meals eating places brought chicken and waffles to the Hollywood crowd starting in the 1970s.

But Edge suspects the dynamic duo has probably been a portion of America's culinary repertoire for significantly longer given that the nation's earliest days, when Thomas Jefferson brought a waffle iron back from France. As for the place chicken and waffles originated? Edge thinks it was many locations which includes the South.

"Killing a chicken, wringing its neck and cooking it for breakfast is a fairly conventional matter to do" in rural places, he says. Which is accurate in the South, he says, but also in the Midwest and in Pennsylvania Dutch country where men and women have been pairing waffles with chicken creamed, not fried for centuries.

Adding a waffle may possibly look exotic, he says, but it can be actually not far removed from chicken and biscuits or chicken and corn bread a waffle getting a type of " speedy bread." In numerous rural parts, he says, it was relatively typical for a farm girl to kill a chicken on Sunday morning, batter it up, cook it in a cast-iron skillet and serve it for breakfast with some type of quick bread.

" Which is a conventional dish," Edge says.

Hmm... regular . So why did we raise the hackles of so quite a few readers? Edge has a theory.

"Any time you speak about fried chicken in the South," says Edge, " you're in essence talking about somebody's mama, and when you talk about somebody's mama, somebody will get mad."


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Saturday, February 16, 2013

One particular City's Enjoy Affair With Processed Cheese

Provel, as seen in its native habitat. Enlarge picture i

Provel, as witnessed in its native habitat.

Provel, as seen in its native habitat.

Provel, as noticed in its native habitat.

With thirty Rock off the air, Judah Friedlander has time to indulge other interests. Like processed cheese.

Friedlander, who played Frank on the sitcom (the man with all the custom baseball caps), says he's been "obsessed" for the past several many years with Provel, a processed blend of Swiss, provolone and cheddar hardly ever identified outdoors its hometown of St. Louis.

" It can be not even legally cheese," Friedlander tells The Salt. " It is melted plastic from the '80s."

Even its fans admit Provel is an acquired taste. For me, consuming raw Provel is akin to chewing on a candle that is lit at the other finish. It has the texture and sheen of wax, with an aftertaste redolent of the liquid "smoke taste " that is the last ingredient listed on the label of a block of the stuff.

But men and women raised consuming Provel love it. It is pretty much unknown outdoors of St. Louis, but in that city Provel can be identified all more than, melted onto pizzas and hamburgers and adorning pasta and salads.

" Folks from St. Louis love it," Tom Coll, proprietor of Joe Fassi Sausage & Sandwich Factory on the Hill, the city's Italian community, tells The Salt. "When we switched to provolone, folks desired the Provel."

St. Louis natives talk a fantastic deal about how it's buttery and smoky and does not melt all in excess of every thing like conventional pizza cheese.

"I like cheese that's a minor sharper," says Mike McCubbins, who performs at the city's central library. "Provel has more tang than, say, mozzarella."

An Imo's pizza from St. Louis, made with Provel, the regional specialty cheese. Enlarge image i

An Imo's pizza from St. Louis, produced with Provel, the regional specialty cheese.

An Imo's pizza from St. Louis, made with Provel, the regional specialty cheese.

An Imo's pizza from St. Louis, created with Provel, the regional specialty cheese.

There are disputes about the origin story of Provel, but it really is mentioned to have been invented on the Hill shortly following Planet War II. Currently, a lot more than two million pounds are consumed just about every yr, in accordance to Margie Imo, president of Imo's Pizza.

The cheese got its large break, so to talk, with the 1964 opening of Imo's, which has been a St. Louis staple for generations the pizza numerous men and women grew up on and one of the number of, back in the day, that delivered.

Imo's now has more than 90 areas, mostly in the St. Louis location. Imo's is the two the prime purveyor of Provel, sitting atop its cracker-thin crusts, and its distributor (Provel is created by a subsidiary of Kraft).

These who leave the city pine for a merchandise that they cannot get except on visits household. " Every time we come back to town, it truly is anything I make my family order," says Andrea Sigritz, who now lives in Arlington, Va. "We get the Imo's pizza with Provel, and it really is on the salad."

But it hasn't taken hold outdoors St. Louis except possibly in Greenpoint, the hipster headquarters area of Brooklyn. A restaurant identified as Speedy Romeo, which is co-owned by a Missouri native, now serves a pizza topped with Provel called the "St. Louie."

Speedy Romeo is the kind of place where personnel brags about mozzarella and ricotta " made in- residence every day." Provel, arriving as it does from the Imo's warehouse in St. Louis in boxes packed with dry ice, "is almost like the antithesis of all that," says manager Jef Diesel.

Having just partaken of a St. Louie, Diesel talks about how high -temperature, wood-fired Provel takes on a golden brown, caramelized skin, whilst retaining "the umami of the flavors and the smokiness of it. It really is one particular of individuals solid -contrast, secret substances," Diesel says.

The St. Louie is now Speedy Romeo's second -most- well known pie. But prior to you make a decision Provel is going to be the upcoming PBR- fashion, down- marketplace phenomenon, don't forget : It will not please each and every palate.

At Pi, yet another neighborhood pizza chain in St. Louis, some of the servers put on T-shirts with the word Provel crossed out.

The St. Louis-based Pi Pizzeria chain prides itself on not using Provel in its pizzas. Enlarge image i

The St. Louis- based Pi Pizzeria chain prides itself on not using Provel in its pizzas.

The St. Louis-based Pi Pizzeria chain prides itself on not using Provel in its pizzas.

The St. Louis- based Pi Pizzeria chain prides itself on not utilizing Provel in its pizzas.

"Our no-Provel shirts are additional of a statement than a dislike of the merchandise," says co- owner Chris Sommers. "I do believe this assisted get people in the door, specifically in our early days. We chose to differentiate in a Provel- heavy town, and that is been very good for our small business."

But Pi, when quickly expanding and a favored of President Obama (and mine), is nowhere near as ubiquitous as Imo's in St. Louis.

In the course of his pay a visit to to the city last week, Friedlander sent out "I have to be in St. Louis" pictures of Imo's slices via Twitter and Instagram. He ordered many much more pies from Imo's and invited his nightclub audience to " enjoy it or detest it."

He did not have to wait for takers. Admittedly, folks had been drinking, but all five pizzas have been consumed nicely before Friedlander was accomplished greeting fans and posing for their pics after the present.

" It can be disgusting and scrumptious," the comedian mentioned.


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How To Make A Chinese New Year -Worthy Potsticker

  • Chef Russell Blue Smith waits as Executive Chef Scott Drewno shouts out directions for teaching patrons to make Chinese dumplings the day before the beginning of the Chinese New Year, Feb. 9.
    Hide caption
    Chef Russell Blue Smith waits as Executive Chef Scott Drewno shouts out directions for teaching patrons to make Chinese dumplings the day prior to the beginning of the Chinese New 12 months, Feb. 9.
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    Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR
  • Hide caption
    A dozen flavors go into Drewno's dumplings. Most essential, the seasonings include things like the "holy trinity" of scallions, ginger and garlic, a couple of kinds of salt, oyster sauce and additional. They are added into the pork and pork unwanted fat, and mixed to a fine paste.
    Earlier Up coming
    Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR
  • Patrons lay out a damp circle of dumpling dough in their hands as they prepare to assemble the dumpling.
    Hide caption
    Patrons lay out a damp circle of dumpling dough in their hands as they prepare to assemble the dumpling.
    Prior Up coming
    Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR
  • Hide caption
    The dumpling dough circle is brushed with egg yolk in a "half-moon" pattern along the leading edge, which is important to holding the dumpling collectively when it cooks. "Your dumpling isn't going to have to look excellent. As prolonged as its appropriately sealed, it will cook up just as great as any other," says Drewno.
    Past Up coming
    Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR
  • Drewno demonstrates how to properly seal the dumpling casing around the meat filling, a mixture of pork, pork fat and spices.
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    Drewno demonstrates how to properly seal the dumpling casing close to the meat filling, a mixture of pork, pork unwanted fat and spices.
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    Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR
  • Crinkled on one side, flat on the other, the dumplings are boiled for about 5 minutes until they float, then transferred, flat side down, into a pan of sizzling hot peanut oil. Only one side of the dumpling is fried, and briefly! They may be called potstickers, but that's the last thing you actually want them to do in your pan.
    Hide caption
    Crinkled on one side, flat on the other, the dumplings are boiled for about five minutes until finally they float, then transferred, flat side down, into a pan of sizzling hot peanut oil. Only a single side of the dumpling is fried, and briefly! They might be identified as potstickers, but that is the final matter you actually want them to do in your pan.
    Previous Up coming
    Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR
  • The finished dumplings, properly fried to a light crisp. The half-moon shape was meant to resemble ancient Chinese currency. Eating the dumplings was believed to bring fortune and prosperity for the coming year.
    Hide caption
    The completed dumplings, effectively fried to a light crisp. The half-moon shape was meant to resemble ancient Chinese currency. Consuming the dumplings was believed to carry fortune and prosperity for the coming 12 months.
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    Daniel M.N. Turner/NPR

one of seven

View slideshow i

Even though he estimates he is manufactured hundreds of 1000's of them, Scott Drewno says pork potstickers under no circumstances get old. In reality, they are the foods the executive chef of The Supply by Wolfgang Puck, a fine dining Asian fusion restaurant in Washington, D.C., says he would get to a desert island.

" They are anything you want in a dish salty, savory, filling," says Drewno, as he lovingly holds up one of three bowls of ground pork he planned to season and stuff into dumplings prior to our eyes.

The humble dumpling was typically prepared by families in northern China, sitting close to tables late into the night before the start out of the Chinese New 12 months.

And when the Yr of the Snake began last weekend, Chinese new year's celebrations traditionally last two weeks. So there is still time if you want to mark the event by striving your hand at dumplings this weekend.

Drewno not too long ago led a willing group of patrons by way of the sticky and twisty techniques of folding dumplings at a class in honor of the Chinese New Yr.

Have a visual taste by way of our slideshow over. Drewno's pork dumpling recipe is beneath.

Traditional Pork Dumpling With Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce

Filling:

1. five pound pork butt

one. five pound pork stomach, ground

2 ounces pork fatback, ground

1 tablespoon cure salt (sodium nitrate, or substitute kosher salt, Drewno says)

2 tablespoons chopped garlic

one tablespoon chopped ginger

two tablespoons sugar

1 / 4 cup oyster sauce

one teaspoon black pepper

one teaspoon white pepper

1 / 4 cup chopped cilantro

1 / two cup scallions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sesame oil

one tablespoon chili oil

1 / four cup Napa cabbage, lightly salted

two tablespoons flat garlic chives, blanched, chopped

Mix meats, fatback, oyster sauce, salt, sugar and peppers in a bowl. Location in freezer for twenty minutes. Grind in mixer with one / 4 -inch die. Mix in mixer with paddle attachment (" till it springs back at you and doesn't fall apart," Drewno says).

Include remaining ingredients.

To wrap:

Potsticker skins

Egg yolks

Spot potsticker skin on table. Brush half with egg yolk. Place little quantity of filling in center of skin. Fold in half, and crimp up sides, sealing filling.

Area in boiling water, cook three to 4 minutes until thoroughly cooked via. Drain.

Spot in scorching saute pan with peanut oil and cook on one side until golden brown. Clear away and place on plate with black vinegar dipping sauce (recipe follows). Garnish with carrot strings, beet strings and daikon strings.

Black Vinegar Dipping Sauce

(Most Asian markets carry the elements, Drewno says.)

four teaspoons black vinegar

one / 8 cup chili oil

four teaspoons sugar

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce

one / 4 cup rice vinegar

2 tablespoons ginger, finely chopped.

Location all ingredients in bowl and mix effectively.


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Friday, February 15, 2013

Romanian Horse Meat In British Lasagna Reveals Complex International Foods Trade

Not all countries in Europe shun horse meat, as the sign above this butcher shop in Paris attests. But horse-eating Europeans still don't like being swindled. Enlarge picture i

Not all nations in Europe shun horse meat, as the sign above this butcher shop in Paris attests. But horse- consuming Europeans nonetheless don't like currently being swindled.

Not all countries in Europe shun horse meat, as the sign above this butcher shop in Paris attests. But horse-eating Europeans still don't like being swindled.

Not all countries in Europe shun horse meat, as the indicator over this butcher store in Paris attests. But horse- consuming Europeans nevertheless do not like currently being swindled.

How did the Romanian horse meat wind up in the British spaghetti sauce? Stick to its path, and you may get a fast tutorial in the complexities of the international foods trade.

Due to the fact horse meat initial turned up in Irish burgers four weeks ago, the saga of horse masquerading as cow has grow to be a pan-European scandal. Horse meat has turned up in beef tortellini in Germany cottage pies sold at schools in Lancashire, England and frozen lasagna in Norway, England and other countries.

Investigators trying to find the source of the horseflesh say it might have come from two slaughterhouses in Romania, with probably a detour in Poland, in advance of wending its way by way of at least six other European nations. Along the way, there have been a lot of options for it to have been mislabeled, repackaged or misrepresented.

Here is The Associated Press's tale of the trail:

"At least some of the horse meat originated at abattoirs in Romania, and was sent by means of a Cyprus-registered trader to a warehouse in the Netherlands. A French meat wholesaler, Spanghero, bought the meat from the trader, then resold it to the French frozen foods processor Comigel. The resulting meals was marketed in Britain and other countries under the Sweden- based Findus label as lasagna and other goods containing ground beef."

The European Union announced Friday at an emergency meeting that it would start off random DNA checks on meat traded across the EU's porous borders.

On Thursday, three males have been arrested at British slaughterhouses on fraud charges. And Dutch authorities Friday raided a meat processing plant suspected of processing Irish and Dutch horse meat and offering it as beef.

It can make you wonder if there is anybody in Europe who wasn't in the horse meat makeover organization.

Countries that traditionally shun horse meat, like Excellent Britain, are not pleased to find they've been eating it unawares. And in countries like France that never share that revulsion, consumers are angry about paying beef costs for cheaper horse meat.

By coincidence, some of us Salties met up for coffee this morning with Angelika Tritscher, a meals security skilled at the Globe Wellbeing Organization. Even though every country demands its own meals safety plan, Tritscher says, "You actually require to operate with each other. A nationwide technique alone won't do it any longer."

Her workplace has set up a network that assists nations investigate international food security outbreaks, such as a 2011 outbreak of salmonella in the United States triggered by pine nuts from Turkey.

But the increasing horse meat scandal helps make it clear that in a planet wherever meals markets often appear borderless, " purchaser beware" remains wise tips.


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Thursday, February 14, 2013

Couple Ties The Knot With Their Own Afro-Asian Rice Treat

Enlarge image i

"Jung is a moveable meal, wrapped in bamboo leaves," says Jidan Koon. She and her now-husband, Bryant Terry, designed their own multicultural edition of the traditional dish when they got engaged.

"Jung is a transportable meal, wrapped in bamboo leaves," says Jidan Koon. She and her now-husband, Bryant Terry, created their own multicultural edition of the conventional dish when they acquired engaged.

Bryant Terry and Jidan Koon's partnership evolved more than cooking. So substantially so that when they received engaged, they developed a exclusive dish: Afro-Asian jung, based mostly on the savory Cantonese treat Koon appreciated as a child in San Francisco's Chinatown.

"Jung is a portable meal, wrapped in bamboo leaves," Koon says. " It can be a triangular-shaped pocket, and when you peel back the leaves, you are going to uncover a glistening pyramid of sweet rice," occasionally filled with bits of shiitake mushrooms and a tough -boiled quail or salty duck egg.

Vegan when they became engaged, the couple wanted their jung recipe to reflect their food philosophy and Terry's African-American heritage.

Peanuts, widespread in Asian and African cooking, stayed. Black glutinous rice and black "forbidden" rice joined the classic white glutinous rice. They subbed black-eyed peas, eaten for very good luck in the American South, for the mung beans. And to replace the taste of pork fat, the pair caramelized onions and kept the shiitake mushrooms.

To celebrate their union, the couple invited good friends and relatives to help make their Afro-Asian jung at their engagement party.

The crowd wrapped adequate jung to feed almost 100 people, says Koon. "It went above so nicely. Individuals thought it was tasty."


Step-by-step instructions for folding jung.

Recipe: Afro-Asian Jung With Shoyu-Vinegar-Chili Sauce

Makes about 20 jung

For the jung

one cup black "forbidden rice," soaked in water overnight
two cups brown glutinous rice, soaked in water overnight
two cups white glutinous rice, soaked in water overnight
Coarse sea salt
5 tablespoons added -virgin olive oil, divided
1 1 / 2 cups black-eyed peas, soaked in water overnight
ten shiitake mushrooms, soaked in water overnight
40 dried bamboo leaves (plus extra for redos)
1 massive onion, diced
one 1 / two cups raw peanuts
One spool of natural cotton string (for wrapping)

For the dipping sauce

one / two cup fresh cilantro, minced
one jalapeno, seeded and minced
one / two cup green onion, thinly sliced
1 / 2 cup shoyu
2 tablespoons white vinegar
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
one one / two teaspoons raw cane sugar
1 / 2 cup water

In a substantial pot more than substantial heat, carry 4 quarts of water to a boil. In batches of 4 or 5, boil the bamboo leaves until they are soft, about 2 minutes. Rinse them effectively, transfer to a container and cover with water.

With kitchen scissors, minimize the bamboo leaves, widthwise, about one / 4 inch beneath the stem (see diagram above ). Discard the stems.

Drain the rice and combine all 3 varieties in a large bowl. Include one teaspoon of salt and three tablespoons of oil and set aside. Drain the black-eyed peas and set aside. Drain the shiitake mushrooms and reduce each in half.

In a medium-sized saucepan more than medium heat, mix the diced onion with 2 tablespoons of oil and saute until eventually it starts to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Add the peanuts and one / two teaspoon of salt and cook till the peanuts start out to brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to bowl.

Organize all of the components on a counter or table. Minimize one spool of natural cotton string into sixteen strands, each 27 inches lengthy.

To assemble the jung, refer to diagram over for every step. Line up two bamboo leaves lengthwise, vein side down, putting the left edge of the correct leaf flush against the vein of the left leaf.

Following, fold the pointed finish up one -third of the length of the leaves. Then fold the leaves in half, lengthwise.

Make a pocket for the filling by opening up the fold of the final two leaves on the correct.

Holding the pocket at its deepest corner, insert substances in this purchase : two tablespoons of the rice mixture, one tablespoon of the peanut mixture, one tablespoon of black-eyed peas, 1 / 2 of a shiitake mushroom, and 1 a lot more tablespoon of the rice mixture.

Fold the leaves more than the pocket and extend the ends of the leaves beyond the edge of the pocket by 1 to three inches. The jung really should be tightly wrapped, resembling a 3 -sided pyramid.

Fold down the sides of the leaves to make the last corner of the pyramid. Consider the part of folded leaf that overextends the jung and fold it more than to a single side. This is the final fold to close up the corner. It is important that adequate of the leaf overextends the jung for you to make these last folds.

For the duration of this phase of the wrapping, components of the leaves may possibly crack open. If the crack is little ( 1 inch or much less ) you can use a different leaf to cover the crack: Soon after making the 3 -sided pyramid form, layer the further leaf on top rated of the crack and wrap the rest of the leaf around the pyramid.

Tightly wrap a strand of string all around 1 finished pyramid, leaving 4 to five inches loose to make the final knot. Start wrapping to secure the final corner fold this aids to make sure the complete jung stays collectively as you continue wrapping. Make a tight double knot.

Repeat until eventually all the jung have been tied.

To cook the assembled jung, carry 4 quarts of fresh water to a boil in a massive pot more than high heat. Transfer just about every jung to the boiling water, cover and cook for 2 hrs.

Any leftover jung can be frozen and reboiled later.

To make the dipping sauce, combine all elements in a little bowl while the jung are boiling and set aside.

Recipe excerpted from The Inspired Vegan by Bryant Terry. Copyright 2012 by Bryant Terry. Excerpted by permission of Da Capo Lifelong Books.


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Bean-To-Bar Chocolate Makers Dare To Bare How It's Done

  • The founders of Madcasse sought to base the entire chocolate-making process, from farm through factory, in Madagascar. The goal: keep jobs and cash in Africa.
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    The founders of Madcasse sought to base the entire chocolate-making process, from farm through factory, in Madagascar. The goal: keep jobs and cash in Africa.
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    Courtesy of Madcasse Chocolate
  • Workers in Madagascar prepare cocoa beans for drying. The process has a big effect on the quality of the finished chocolate.
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    Workers in Madagascar prepare cocoa beans for drying. The process has a big effect on the quality of the finished chocolate.
    Previous Next
    Courtesy of Madcasse Chocolate
  • Askinosie Chocolate, launched six years ago, is one of the pioneers of the bean-to-bar movement.  Bars are made with beans from single regions, or a single farm.
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    Askinosie Chocolate, launched six years ago, is one of the pioneers of the bean-to-bar movement. Bars are made with beans from single regions, or a single farm.
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    Bob Linder/Courtesy of Askinosie Chocolate
  • Hide caption
    Shawn Askinosie, founder of Askinosie Chocolate, buys cocoa beans directly from farmers, like this Uwate cocoa farmers group in Tenende, Tanzania. Dealing direct "impacts the flavor of chocolate, and it brings the consumers closer to the producers," Askinosie says.
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    Bob Linder/Courtesy of Askinosie Chocolate
  • Dandelion Chocolate lures customers into its San Francisco factory with a cafe and store. Co-founder Cameron Ring says most people don't know how chocolate is made, even if they eat it every day.
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    Dandelion Chocolate lures customers into its San Francisco factory with a cafe and store. Co-founder Cameron Ring says most people don't know how chocolate is made, even if they eat it every day.
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    Molly DeCoudreaux
  • The Dandelion Chocolate factory has an open workspace where patrons can watch--and smell--the chocolate as it is ground, conched, formed into bars, and wrapped.
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    The Dandelion Chocolate factory has an open workspace where patrons can watchand smellthe chocolate as it is ground, conched, formed into bars, and wrapped.
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    Molly DeCoudreaux
  • Is it chocolate yet? Customers can test the finished product on the spot at Dandelion Chocolate's storefront cafe.
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    Is it chocolate yet? Customers can test the finished product on the spot at Dandelion Chocolate's storefront cafe.
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    Molly DeCoudreaux

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If you're looking to buy chocolate in San Francisco this Valentine's Day, just follow your nose down Valencia Street. "A lot of people walk in [and say], 'Oh, my gosh, the smell!" says Cameron Ring, co-owner of Dandelion Chocolate.

That lush chocolate scent is wafting from a new factory that's smaller than many two-bedroom apartments. The floor plan may be modest, but the olfactory output is huge. And it's not just the sweet perfume of freshly tempered chocolate. Just-ground cocoa beans exude an acidic tang that fades in a day or two, to be replaced by that classic chocolate aroma. The grassy, acrid smell of fermented cacao beans is even less alluring. They're sequestered in a sealed room that vents outside.

"Chocolate is one food where everyone is familiar with it, but it has this untold story," Ring says. As part of the growing bean-to-bar chocolate movement, he wants to tell that story. Thus the factory in a high-traffic area of downtown San Francisco, with a small store and cafe up front that lure customers in to see the whirring machines in the factory beyond.

Dandelion imports chocolate from individual farms in the Dominican Republic, Venezuela and Madagascar. The bars are simple, made with just cocoa beans and sugar. They are meant to be tasted and compared, akin to a wine tasting or coffee cupping. Ring, a former Silicon Valley entrepreneur who co-founded the social networking site Plaxo, says: "The beans are the stars of the show."

By controlling the chocolate-making process from the farm to the bar, bean-to-bar chocolate entrepreneurs say they can create better chocolate chocolate that preserves the beans' distinctive flavors. Many also hope that the farm-to-bar pipeline will make for more ethical, sustainable production in an industry with a long history of exploitation.

"I actually go source these beans myself on four continents, directly with farmers," says Shawn Askinosie, founder of Askinosie Chocolate, based in Springfield, Mo. "I pay them directly. We pay them above-market prices. Then I go back with my financial statements, translated in whatever language they need, and profit-share with them."

That financial transparency pays off, Askinosie says, because farmers are motivated to test and perfect their drying and fermentation methods, which have a huge influence on chocolate flavor.

But making chocolate that way isn't cheap. A 3-ounce Askinosie bar, made from beans bought from farmers in San Jose del Tambo, Ecuador, will set you back $8. And it's not easy. Askinosie, a former criminal defense attorney, decided to try making chocolate from scratch after getting into baking as a midlife hobby. "Four months later I was in the Amazon," he says, buying cacao beans from subsistence farmers.

He soon became a cocoa bean exporter, in an industry that he says is 20 years behind the coffee trade in terms of sophistication and efficiency. "I have tried murder cases, and those are pretty stressful and challenging," Askinosie says. "This, dealing with farmers and importing, is a lot more stressful and challenging."

Still, Askinosie says he's making a profit. "We know this direct-trade with farmers model works. All we have to do is look at coffee to prove it," pointing to Chicago's Intelligentsia Coffee, which pioneered buying beans direct from growers.

Askinosie also makes a point of investing in the communities at both ends of the chocolate trail. His company funds lunch programs that feed 2,000 children a day in the Philippines and Tanzania. Back home in Springfield, he teaches entrepreneurship at public schools near the storefront factory.

Bean-to-bar entrepreneurs see direct trade, despite its frustrations, as a solution to what they perceive as the shortcomings of fair trade certification, which relies on third-party oversight. Those certifications have become controversial in the coffee industry, as huge roasters like Starbucks and Green Mountain start touting fair trade credentials.

But that also means that chocolate fans need to get up to speed on the often murky differences between fair trade and direct trade.

"Almost all the bean-to-bar chocolate makers are doing pretty good work, paying their farmers above-market prices," says Clay Gordon, a chocolate consultant and author of the Chocolate Life blog. "Most of them are choosing not to pay $8,000 to $10,000 for certification. They're paying that to the farmers."

Madcasse Chocolate is experimenting with another twist in bean-to-bar keeping production in country. "We saw that there was a gaping hole in the chocolate production system," says Tim McCollum, a co-founder of Madcasse. "Africa isn't poor because they produce agriculture; it's poor because that's all they produce."

McCollum and his partners were Peace Corps volunteers in Madagascar and, like most volunteers, felt they had gained a life-changing experience while giving almost nothing to their host country. So they looked for a product that could be made entirely in Africa. First they tried vanilla but quickly realized it had a limited market. But the world's demand for chocolate appears limitless. The former Peace Corps volunteers are selling their bars to national retailers like Whole Foods and Wegman's.

The company has staff in Madagascar to work with farmers and supervise fermentation and drying, as well as monitor production at a factory owned by an African partner, which employs about 40 people. McCollum says, "They're doing everything from new product development to recipe development to actually making the chocolate."

People may want food that's ethically produced, McCollum says, but those values don't help if the food is no good. "What they really want is better products. It all comes down to the quality." Has he succeeded? 'I don't want to sound coy here, but you'll know when you taste the product."


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