Monday, December 31, 2012

Why We Toast: Uncorking A New Year's Tradition

A happy-looking 1930s couple toasts.

A happy - looking 1930s couple toasts.

The act of toasting feels all-natural : You elevate your arms in affirmation and drink in honor of an event or a loved one particular.

It really is what millions will do this week as they ring in the New Yr, but why? Like shaking hands or saluting, toasting is a habit with unbelievably foggy beginnings, so we here at The Salt decided to dig into it, for the sake of science.

" There is a thin line among history and folklore," says historian Paul Dickson. He ought to know. He wrote a book about toasting termed Toasts: More than one,500 of the Ideal Toasts, Sentiments, Blessings and Graces. "But toasting absolutely goes back to the ancient planet."

Ulysses drank to the wellness of Achilles in The Odyssey, he says. And in Rome, consuming to someone's wellness was so critical that the Senate demanded that all diners drink to their emperor, Augustus, ahead of each and every meal.

Virtually just about every culture the Hebrews, Egyptians, Persians, Saxons, Huns had a pledging of honor with a glass, Dickson says.

But it wasn't constantly named a toast. The phrase did not come about until eventually the late 17th century. In the exact same way you throw a lime in tequila, it was customary to plop a piece of toast or crouton in a drink, Dickson says. Feel of it as an early form of a cocktail snack.

"It may well have been a flavoring device," he says. "The apply was typical, and practically anything found floating in a drink was referred to as toast."

Origins Of The 'Clink'

And the clinking of glasses? Dickson says that toasting flair didn't popularize until finally the early days of Christianity.

Quite a few believed the bell-like noise would drive off the devil which was most harmful in occasions of drinking and reveling. But which is just one particular concept.

A different legend contends that by including the clink, toasters could get the biggest pleasure from a drink, Dickson says. Just before the clink, toasts only satisfied 4 of the five senses.

And there is a 3rd concept.

However Dickson's analysis can not confirm or deny this one, several think the clinking of glasses began as a way for nobles to keep away from getting poisoned. The tale goes that the clank would slosh liquid from one drink to the other, reassuring the guest that his or her drink was safe and untouched.

The Road To The American Toast

Regardless of the explanation, numerous in these early days drank to well being, hospitality and honor. But each culture practiced various customs some a bit unusual. The Irish tended to recite blessings, whereas young Englishmen in the 17th century toasted sour drinks to profess their enjoy.

"The apply called for males to present their affection for a girl by stabbing themselves in the arm, mixing their blood in their wine, and consuming to the lady in query," Dickson explains.

In Scotland, it was customary to drink sparingly in the course of the meal and then deliver in a big punch bowl filled with whiskey, hot water and sugar after dinner. The drinking often lasted eight to 10 hours, Dickson says.

And as for early Americans they adopted the tradition of toasting fairly readily. But their ritual was largely directed to America as a patriotic gesture. They toasted to the new republic and the experiment of democracy.

" After the [Revolutionary] War, no official dinner or celebration was finish devoid of 13 toasts, a single for each and every state," writes Dickson. "For a lot of many years, the 13 toasts have been obligatory at local Fourth of July celebrations."

Currently, the ritual of toasting would seem additional popular than ever, maybe a product of motion pictures and cultural references, Dickson says.

Toasts have also evolved into something of a verbal souvenir: " It can be something you consider household with you as sort of a remembrance of that time."

We'll absolutely do that on Monday evening.


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Green Grapes And Red Underwear: A Spanish New Year's Eve

Ringing in the New Year in Spain requires eating a dozen grapes and wearing a very specific kind of undergarment. Enlarge image i

Ringing in the New Year in Spain demands consuming a dozen grapes and wearing a quite certain kind of undergarment.

Ringing in the New Year in Spain requires eating a dozen grapes and wearing a very specific kind of undergarment.

Ringing in the New Yr in Spain involves eating a dozen grapes and sporting a quite specific variety of undergarment.

If the thought of watching the ball drop in Instances Square again is previously producing you yawn, take into account perking your New Year's Eve celebration with this tradition from Spain: As midnight nears on Nochevieja, or " old evening," the last day of the year, the whole country gathers in front of tv screens or in town squares, clutching a smaller bowl of green grapes and wearing red underwear. Far more on the underwear later on.

The camera of the major national Television channel focuses on the clock tower of the 18th-century Real Casa de Correos in Madrid's Puerta del Sol while a pair of announcers in formal put on, superior above the thousands of revelers packed into the chilly plaza beneath, quickly repeat guidelines one last time. Right after the bells ring out 4 instances in speedy succession "Wait, wait, disregard people !" there is a slight pause and then starts a series of 12 chimes a single for each month.

At that very first dong, Spaniards from Barcelona to Bilbao to Cadiz pop a grape into their mouths. There is very little time to chew and swallow, considerably significantly less savor, due to the fact about two seconds later on there is a second dong and a 2nd grape gets popped into the mouth. And on by means of 12 dongs and las doce uvas de la suerte ("the 12 lucky grapes").

If you eat all 12 by the finish of the final bell's toll and that does not suggest finishing with a half-chewed mouthful then you will have good luck in el ao nuevo (the new yr ).

This popular tradition is a century or so outdated, although its precise origins continue to be debatable. 1 oft-repeated story says that growers in Alicante had a bumper 1909 harvest and discovered a innovative way to promote off their surplus.

The traditional variety of grape consumed at the start of the new year is called Aledo. The grapes mature late are not harvested until November and December. Enlarge image i

The classic assortment of grape consumed at the start off of the new yr is referred to as Aledo. The grapes mature late are not harvested until November and December.

The traditional variety of grape consumed at the start of the new year is called Aledo. The grapes mature late are not harvested until November and December.

The classic selection of grape consumed at the begin of the new year is named Aledo. The grapes mature late are not harvested till November and December.

Not long ago, even though, outdated newspaper content have been republished that demonstrate the tradition started decades earlier, in the 1880s. These stories inform of bourgeoisie in Madrid copying the French tradition of possessing grapes and champagne on the final day of the yr. Ahead of long this customized had been adopted by certain madrileos who went to Puerta del Sol to see the bells chime at the turning of the year and, most most likely in an ironic or mocking method, to consume grapes like the upper class.

About 80 % of the " fortunate grapes" come from the valley of Vinalop in central Alicante, on Spain's Mediterranean coast. Fleshy, deliciously sweet, and pale, just about whitish-green in color, they are a regular Spanish range known as Aledo that, maturing late, are not harvested till November and December.

But these are no normal grapes. Protected by Denominacin de Origen (designation of origin, or D.O.) status, budding clusters are wrapped in paper bags in June and July and kept coated as they ripen. This was very first done in the late 19th century to safeguard them from a plague of cochylis vine moths. Growers identified it also conserved the taste, aroma and color of the grapes, and slowed their maturation.

According to the regulatory office for D.O., Uva de Mesa Embolsada Vinalop, bagging the grapes also means that "they type a peel that is much finer by not getting to fend off the aggressions of the rain, the sun or the wind."

When I went to Barcelona's iconic La Boqueria market to obtain my grapes for this year's festivities, Maria, the seasoned stall owner of Frutas y Verduras E. Lafuente, advised me that " obtaining such a fine skin also can make them faster to consume. There's less to swallow."

Supermarkets sell small tins of 12 seeded and peeled grapes. Enlarge image i

Supermarkets promote modest tins of twelve seeded and peeled grapes.

Supermarkets sell small tins of 12 seeded and peeled grapes.

Supermarkets sell small tins of 12 seeded and peeled grapes.

And, with the bells impatiently tolling, that smaller detail can make a distinction. It is no straightforward task consuming grapes so swiftly, in particular when just about every has three or four seeds. (Seedless grapes are a rarity right here, however some painstakingly clear away the seeds beforehand. Ever much more intense or modern are the modest tins of 12 seeded and peeled grapes now sold in supermarkets.) The only way to finish all twelve is to not chew, just consider a strong bite and then swallow, pips and all.

Such a tactic is easier to approach than to execute, particularly by grape number 6 or seven when, in my practical experience, the giggles kick in. Following 15 years dwelling in Spain, I have figured out that the only way to finish all twelve is by concentrating on the chimes and ignoring the rest of the surrounding commotion.

If scoffing grapes at midnight is not strange adequate, convention says you must do so even though sporting red ropa interior, or underwear a bra, a sock, a garter, whatever. And stranger nevertheless the undergarment really should be offered to you by someone else.

Maria, the stall owner, reminded me not to forget a 3rd standard lucky charm to accompany red underwear and grapes: drop a gold ring into my celebratory glass of cava ( community champagne- fashion bubbly from Catalunya). "Just will not swallow it!" That would, no doubt, be a harbinger of undesirable luck.

When the 12 dongs finish and the final of the grapes has been swallowed, there are cheek kisses, toasts with glasses of cava, and pieces of turrn (almond and honey nougat from Alicante) passed around as the most pricey commercials of the yr play on Tv and cellphone lines jam with the crush of properly -wishing calls.

In this year of acute economic hardship in Spain, several will hope that consuming the grapes brings better luck in 2013, and try out especially tough to finish them all just before the final chime fades to silence and the new year commences.

Jeff Koehler is the author of Morocco: A Culinary Journey With Recipes. His next cookbook, on Spain, will be published in 2013. Visit www.jeff-koehler.com or adhere to @koehlercooks.


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Sunday, December 30, 2012

On Your Plate In 2013, Count on Kimchi And Great -For-You Greens

Commentator Bonny Wolf expects Asian cuisine such as kimchi fried rice to become even more popular in 2013. Enlarge image i

Commentator Bonny Wolf expects Asian cuisine this kind of as kimchi fried rice to become even much more preferred in 2013.

Commentator Bonny Wolf expects Asian cuisine such as kimchi fried rice to become even more popular in 2013.

Commentator Bonny Wolf expects Asian cuisine such as kimchi fried rice to turn into even additional popular in 2013.

Weekend Edition food commentator Bonny Wolf offers her predictions of what we'll consume in the new year.

Asia is the new Europe. It's been gradual: from pan-Asian, Asian fusion and Asian-inspired to just determining amid Vietnamese, Korean, Tibetan and Burmese for dinner.

Should we have the basic food of the Thai plateau or the sizzling, salty, sour meals of southern Thailand?

The new flavors of the year will not come from the kitchens of chefs skilled at Le Cordon Bleu. Much more very likely, they will trickle up from Asian street meals. Chipotle has opened ShopHouse, with a menu inspired by street food from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Hanoi.

Even comfort foods are becoming Asian: Vietnamese pho, Korean kimchi fried rice and Chinese scorching pots.

Speaking of kimchi, we'll see a good deal a lot more fermented meals. Final year, we canned this yr, we ferment. Feel sauerkraut. Or, if you're underneath 30, kombucha, which for you outdated individuals is fermented tea. Fermented meals produce probiotics good bacteria.

Connected NPR Stories

Great -for-you meals continue to be big. Vegetables are now entrees as nicely as ice creams. I'm going to go out on a limb, even though, and say Brussels sprouts might have peaked. The place do they have left to go? They've been paired with every single ingredient known to modern day cooks. They've gone from "Eww... Brussels sprouts" to staying the most well-liked kid in vegetable college. They've been baked, breaded, roasted and shredded.

We'll see much more dark, leafy greens, beet tops, collards and probably even more types of kale. And assume much more seaweed. It, too, contributes to extended life. As a member of the child boom, I can say this: We actually want to hang on.

Veganism is acquiring even larger, but so is nose-to-tail.

Farm-to-table now involves farm-to-bar. Mixologists (a.k.a. bartenders) have their very own gardens or store at farmers markets for develop to include to cocktails. Also watch for much more smoked drinks with smoked ice cubes, of course and barrel-aged cocktails. Like anything else, they'll be more savory than sweet.

And if you want just to be left alone to eat no matter what unhip foods you want, think about including a minor soy sauce.

Bonny Wolf is managing editor of American Meals Roots.


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The 'Queen Of Tarts' On What is For Dinner This Season

Weekend Edition Sunday guest host Linda Wertheimer speaks with English chef Tamasin Day Lewis also recognized as the "Queen of Tarts" about her personal selections for a seasonal table, like a broad array of tarts.


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Saturday, December 29, 2012

Get The Most Bang From Your Bubbly

In time for New Year's Eve, Science Friday examines the chemical reactions that transpire in fluted glassware. Ira Flatow and Richard Zare, a chemist at Stanford University, pore above the science of bubbles from how to preserve that open champagne fizzy ( neglect the cork) to why beer tastes superior from a glass rather than a bottle.


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Friday, December 28, 2012

One particular Lunch Lady's Cafeteria Conversion

Kathy Del Tonto (far right) participates in a class that teaches school cafeteria workers how to prepare meals from scratch. Enlarge picture i

Kathy Del Tonto (far appropriate ) participates in a class that teaches school cafeteria employees how to prepare meals from scratch.

Kathy Del Tonto (far right) participates in a class that teaches school cafeteria workers how to prepare meals from scratch.

Kathy Del Tonto (far appropriate ) participates in a class that teaches college cafeteria employees how to put together meals from scratch.

Kathy Del Tonto started off cooking college meals 30 years ago in the Montrose school district at the foot of Colorado's San Juan Mountains. Back then, the cafeteria employees manufactured everything from scratch.

"My 1st kitchen that I managed was a small nation college out south of town, and we made our own ketchup and everything," she says.

But instances modified. Families started out eating a lot more rapidly foods, and processing companies started out providing schools quick - meals types of options. The firms would consider the food that the U.S. Division of Agriculture gives to colleges, turn it into chicken nuggets and other processed items children want, and then send it to cafeterias for less than cooking it on website would cost.

Del Tonto went along with it. "By doing processed foods you can cut your labor since you never have to do the difficult cooking, or you're just reheating and that type of thing," she explains.

More and more, however, the movement to decrease childhood obesity by bettering what kids consume in college has changed the game. It implies schools are now required to serve additional fresh fruits and vegetables. And there is a motion within the motion that promotes the retro notion of cooking meals from scratch. And that will take a alter in the hearts and minds of individuals behind the lunch line.

Mike Shethar, a chef from Boulder, Colo., wishes Del Tonto and all other cafeteria workers onboard. He says with a minor instruction, foods workers can cook the foods on website.

"I request them if they cook chicken at residence and they're like, 'Of program I cook chicken at residence,' and I say, 'Is it difficult ?' 'No, I do it all the time,' " says Shethar. "And so I assume about transferring the adore you give your food at property why should not it be in the colleges ?"

Regardless of the rap that it can be more high priced to cook, Shethar believes it can be done for the identical value as obtaining the meals processors do it. Shethar travels all over Colorado with a group known as LiveWell Colorado, which teaches districts like Del Tonto's how to switch to a lot more healthful meals. Consider of it as a boot camp for the lunch lady set.

At 1st, Del Tonto was not pleased.

"I didn't like somebody coming in and telling me I was executing it wrong. We had been providing little ones what they loved. We had big lunch counts they had been satisfied. Nobody was complaining," she says.

That was two many years ago. Del Tonto was in charge of meals for all 11 colleges in her district, and she had them serving processed meals practically exclusively.

But by the end of the school foods training, she was a modified woman.

"When I sat there in that classroom and knew the obesity charge had increased 30 %, when I noticed photos of young children and realizing that that generation doesn't have the daily life expectancy that their mothers and fathers [have] as a mom, that is a shock-and-awe minute," she says. "I bear in mind considering in my head, if it is not me, who's it gonna be that is going to consider that on? And if not now, when?"

Two years later, Del Tonto's colleges have switched from mainly processed foods to creating 95 % of what little ones consume from scratch.

But it was not uncomplicated. It expected education employees members, educating them about healthful consuming, and tons of repetition to get the young children to make the a lot more healthful selections.

Those difficulties, and others, are a lot more than most colleges want to take on, says Joe Pawlak, a school food business analyst. It takes dollars, new gear and retraining cafeteria employees. Del Tonto's school had economic support.

Del Tonto remains committed to serving almost all meals in her schools cooked from scratch. She says lunch girls experience far better serving items they've created themselves.

"Just being aware of the enjoy and the care we place in that meals, hoping that it makes a difference for some of these children."

This story is a partnership amongst NPR, Colorado Public Radio and Kaiser Overall health News.


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'Consider the Fork' Chronicles Evolution of Eating

Did you know that the human overbite may have evolved after people began using forks and knives? In Consider the Fork, author Bee Wilson traces how kitchen toolsfrom knives to pots to gas stoveshave changed over time, and how they have influenced what, and how, we eat.


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Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Smartphone Apps Present Number of Shortcuts For Those With Food Allergies

The iTube platform, left, uses colorimetric assays and a smartphone-based digital reader to detect potential food allergen. A screen capture of the iTube App appears on the right. Enlarge image i

The iTube platform, left, employs colorimetric assays and a smartphone- primarily based digital reader to detect possible food allergen. A display capture of the iTube App appears on the proper.

The iTube platform, left, uses colorimetric assays and a smartphone-based digital reader to detect potential food allergen. A screen capture of the iTube App appears on the right.

The iTube platform, left, utilizes colorimetric assays and a smartphone- primarily based digital reader to detect possible meals allergen. A display capture of the iTube App appears on the ideal.

Managing food allergies can be a discomfort, requiring tons of sleuthing of components in dining establishments and supermarkets. But individuals with potentially lethal allergies to nuts and other meals will not have substantially alternative.

Dozens of smartphone apps offer you to make that activity easier. Physicians say, though, the apps now on the marketplace just aren't trusted ample.

We here at The Salt received to thinking about meals allergy apps when we ran across Aydogan Ozcan's new smartphone- primarily based foods chemistry lab. The iTube employs a regular cellphone camera to analyze a food's chemical composition. A user need to have only pop a chunk of food into one particular of the two wee check tubes connected to the cell phone, wait twenty minutes, and presto! laboratory final results, in components per million.

Ozcan, a professor of electrical engineering and bioengineering at the University of California, Los Angeles, specializes in re-engineering cell phones into equipment. He invented, for example, an affordable microscope that could be used to check blood for malaria parasites or the HIV virus.

He envisions the iTube as a instrument for colleges, eating places and, of course, moms and dads of kids with foods allergy symptoms. Customers of the minilab could upload their results to a personal database or share the final results with people around the planet to produce a crowdsourced meals allergy database.

Ozcan recently tested the iTube prototype with retailer - bought cookies and identified that his gadget accurately identified the presence of peanuts. The final results are published online in the journal Lab on a Chip.

Charmed as we are by this invention, we realized that when speaking about life -threatening illnesses it would be good to talk to a physician. So we named up Scott Sicherer, a researcher at the Jaffe Food Allergy Institute at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. He is not charmed at all.

"I surely have concerns and skepticism and warnings for my clients who use any of these items," he told The Salt. "As far as I know, they are not precise ample to depend on."

Foods allergy apps on the market fall into 3 classes : foods journals, to track meals eaten and symptoms databases of meals elements and bar code scanners that can be applied to figure out meals ingredients.

The meals journals look like they'd be harmless, due to the fact all the information comes from the man or woman using them. But Sicherer says they could lead folks to self-diagnose an allergy that is not there and put themselves on needlessly restrictive diet plans. " Talk to a medical doctor " about signs, he says. " Will not test to diagnose yourself. That is wherever men and women get themselves into problems."

A scan of offered iPhone and Android foods database apps reveals lukewarm evaluations, with men and women noting inconsistency in between the apps and actual product labels. Given how usually meals producers transform products and substances, it looks like maintaining an accurate, detailed database for an app would be hard at greatest. Sicherer says: "When you're talking about your wellness and security, you may well not want to depend on that."

How about the bar code readers? They've been really effective for organizations, such as Fat Watchers, that offer them to assistance folks identify the calorie, excess fat, and fiber content in packaged meals.

But Sicherer dumps cold water on the notion of relying on these kinds of apps for acquiring possible allergens. " There's a huge difference if you're determining if something's going to send you into [ existence -threatening] anaphylaxis, or if the calories are greater or decrease. The margin of error is diverse."

Regrettably, Sicherer says, the most dependable and easiest point to do to prevent foods allergens is however to " read through the label carefully, [and] ask queries in a restaurant."

Ozcan's lab on a cell phone seems like it could consider care of the inaccuracy problem. But the prototype calls for consumers to undertake a mini chemistry experiment. They would have to grind up the foods, combine it in a test tube with hot water and a solvent, and then mix it with a series of testing liquids. That process takes about twenty minutes.

Imagine getting a brownie in a coffee store and then going by means of that twenty -minute drill. All of a sudden asking the server "Does this have nuts in it?" appears like not such an ordeal.


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Don't Fear That Expired Food

The expiration date on foods like orange juice and even milk aren't indicators of when those products will go bad. Enlarge image i

The expiration date on foods like orange juice and even milk aren't indicators of when those products will go bad.

The expiration date on foods like orange juice and even milk aren't indicators of when those products will go bad.

The expiration date on foods like orange juice and even milk aren't indicators of when those products will go bad.

Now that the Christmas feast is over, you may be looking at all the extra food you made, or the food that you brought home from the store that never even got opened.

And you may be wondering: How long can I keep this? What if it's past its expiration date? Who even comes up with those dates on food, anyway, and what do they mean?

Here's the short answer: Those "sell-by" dates are there to protect the reputation of the food. They have very little to do with food safety. If you're worried whether food is still OK to eat, just smell it.

One of the places that knows most about the shelf life of food is a scientific establishment in Livermore, Calif., called the National Food Lab. At the NFL, they put food on shelves for days, or weeks, or even years, to see how it holds up.

Sometimes, they'll try to accelerate the process with 90-degree heat and high humidity.

And then, from time to time, they'll take some of the food whether it's bagged salad greens, breakfast cereal, or fruit juice off the shelf and place it in front of a highly trained panel of experts who check the taste and smell and texture.

"You would think that everybody can taste and smell food, but some of us are much better at it than others," says Jena Roberts, vice president for business development at the NFL. The lab has 40 of these food tasters on staff. "They are the most fit people in the group," says Roberts. "Because they don't eat the food. They expectorate it. Which is a fancy college word for spit it in a cup."

The experts give the food grades, in numbers. The numbers go down as the food gets older. Bread gets stale. Salad dressings can start to taste rancid.

John Ruff, president of the Institute of Food Technologists in Chicago, says the companies that sell this food take a look at those grades and decide where they will draw the line, to protect the reputation of their products.

"If the product was designed, let's say, to be a 7 when it was fresh, you may choose that at 6.2, it's gotten to the point where [you] don't want it to be on the market any more," he says.

"If it's 6.0, would most people still find it reasonably good? Absolutely," he says. "But companies want people to taste their products as best they can at the optimum, because that's how they maintain their business and their market shares."

This is all organized and carried out by food companies; there's no federal law that requires dates on any food except for infant formula, although some states do require sell-by dates on milk or meat.

Still, these dates don't really tell you anything about whether food is safe.

According to Ruff, most products are safe to eat long after their expiration date. In fact, even meat or milk that's clearly starting to spoil is not necessarily dangerous. "Very often, you won't eat it because of the smell, and you probably won't like the taste, but in a lot of cases, it's unlikely to cause you illness," he says.

That's because it's not the food that sat on the shelf too long that makes you sick, Ruff says. It's the food that got contaminated with Salmonella or Listeria bacteria, or disease-causing strains of E. coli. And that food might not smell bad as it might have arrived in the store only yesterday.

"In 40 years, in eight countries, if I think of major product recalls and food poisoning outbreaks, I can't think of [one] that was driven by a shelf-life issue," Ruff says.

Canned food, in particular, can stay safe for a really long time. In 1974, scientists at the National Food Processors Association in Washington, D.C., got their hands on several old cans of food.

Janet Dudek, now semi-retired and living in Vienna, Va., was among the scientists who analyzed this old food. Her assignment was a can of corn, vintage 1934, that was found in someone's basement in California.

When they opened the can, Dudek says, the contents looked and smelled pretty much like ordinary canned corn. Analysis showed that it had most of the usual complement of nutrients although there were lower levels of a few, such as vitamin C.

Results were similar for century-old canned oysters, tomatoes, and red peppers in cans recovered from a sunken steamboat, buried in river silt near Omaha, Neb.

Dudek says, as far as she knows, nobody actually tasted this food. That just wasn't done, she says. But they probably could have. "It would have been safe to eat if the can itself maintained its integrity," she says.

When food in supermarkets passes its sell-by date, though, it gets swept off the shelves. Often, it's donated to food banks. Sometimes it's auctioned off.

But if you discover such food in your pantry at home, there's really no reason to throw it out. Ruff says you should just sniff the meat and milk. If it smells funny, go ahead and toss it.

But for most foods, don't worry. "As a consumer, I've certainly opened packages of food that were five years old."


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Tuesday, December 25, 2012

The Bittersweet Tale Of An Odd Xmas Cookie Sandwich

When we asked listeners to inform us what they ate on Xmas Day, we located a good deal of commonality puddings, cookies, egg nog and a number of quirks, which include a drink termed a " Holiday Harvey," and an odd Christmas Day sandwich made of biscuits, salami, cookies, and butter.


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'Canadian Peanut Butter' Connects Mainers To Their Acadian Roots

Robert Bisson of Bisson and Sons Meat Market in Topsham, Maine, with his granddaughter. The tiny shop sells traditional cretons during the holidays. Enlarge image i

Robert Bisson of Bisson and Sons Meat Industry in Topsham, Maine, with his granddaughter. The very small store sells regular cretons during the holidays.

Robert Bisson of Bisson and Sons Meat Market in Topsham, Maine, with his granddaughter. The tiny shop sells traditional cretons during the holidays.

Robert Bisson of Bisson and Sons Meat Market in Topsham, Maine, with his granddaughter. The small store sells traditional cretons throughout the holidays.

Last Xmas, we informed you about tortires, the savory meat pies Canadians serve all around the holidays. Now, we bring you cretons, a Qubcois delicacy observed throughout Canada and parts of New England this time of year.

In Maine, French-Canadians are the greatest ethnic group about a quarter of the population. But a lot of right here no longer converse French and are forgetting their family historical past. At Christmastime, some Mainers reconnect with people fading cultural roots by generating cretons, a spiced pork pt similar to the trendier French spread, rillettes. It is like a spreadable scrapple, as central to French-Canadian cuisine as chopped liver is to Eastern European Jews.

Portland, Maine is renowned for its restaurants, but not overtly Franco-American ones. Chef Nate Nadeau, at the helm of the common Fore Street, just lately cooked a French-Canadian pop-up brunch right here, serving poutine (Canadian- style fries and gravy) as the salad program and eggs paired with cretons.

"With meals industrialization, a lot of the connections amongst people's meals and their heritage have been lost," explains Nadeau, whose family ran a fried fish restaurant in New Hampshire when he was a youngster. " They're not that far away. They're proper there. You just have to go back a generation or two."

Mailhot's of Lewiston, Maine, makes both pork and turkey cretons. Enlarge image i

Mailhot's of Lewiston, Maine, can make each pork and turkey cretons.

Mailhot's of Lewiston, Maine, makes both pork and turkey cretons.

Mailhot's of Lewiston, Maine, helps make both pork and turkey cretons.

Cretons, also regarded as gorton or corton, turns up at supermarkets and butchers stores throughout Maine and in neighboring Acadian states. The most significant US producer is mom-and-pop Mailhot Sausage Co., which can make cretons with ground pork loin or turkey, for a decrease - unwanted fat version. Marc Mailhot's excellent -grandfather started off the company in 1910, immediately after migrating to Lewiston with the 1000's of French-Canadians who came to work the mills here.

" It can be the Canadian peanut butter," Mailhot says. " There's just shelves of the stuff there."

Traditionally, mill employees spread cretons with mustard on sandwiches as an alternative of baloney. A lot of still butter their breakfast toast with greasy cretons as a substitute. Other people spread it on Saltine crackers or things it into puff pastry or mushroom for hors d'oeuvres. But handful of agree on how to make cretons.

Each Franco- loved ones has a different method. Anne Tessier-Talbot, who runs a well-known wine shop in Brunswick, swears by her father Hervey's recipe. She browns twice-ground pork shoulder ( other people use the butt) in advance of adding grated onions, minced garlic and cinnamon, allspice and cloves ( think pumpkin pie or mincemeat spices). Then, Tessier-Talbot pours in milk, to break down the proteins, and covers the pork with water to simmer for hours. The result, when chilled, is her family's Christmas spread. Her mmre even mixed cretons with mashed potatoes as the filling for her tortires, the well-known meat pies.

Cretons

Recipe adapted from Anne Tessier-Talbot of Tess' Industry in Brunswick, Me. Also inspired by Robert Bisson of Bisson & Sons Meat Market in Topsham and Michael Sanders, writer of the Fresh from Maine cookbook. You can differ the spices according to personal preference. Tessier-Talbot's father, Hervey, used to wrap total cloves, allspice and a cinnamon stick in cheesecloth to simmer with the pork, discarding the bouquet when it was done. In addition to these listed beneath, some use nutmeg, ginger or crushed red pepper. Tessier-Talbot serves her spread with mustard and a sprinkle of garlic salt on best.

Homemade cretons. Enlarge picture i

Homemade cretons.

Homemade cretons.

Homemade cretons.

Substances

1 pound ground pork (from the butt, shoulder, loin or other scraps. Inquire your butcher to finely grind it twice, if attainable ).

one cup milk

1 cups water

3 / 4 cup grated onions, which includes some of their juice

1 huge clove garlic, minced (optional)

one pinch ground cloves

one / four teaspoon ground allspice

one / four teaspoon cinnamon

teaspoon salt, or much more to taste

Ground black or white pepper, to taste

Up to 1 cup bread crumbs (optional, Tessier-Talbot prefers with no for a lot more spreadable pate)

Include the pork to a deep saut pan or stock pot more than medium- higher warmth. No oil is vital because the pork will release some grease. Brown until finally the pork is no extended pink, stirring. Then stir in onions and garlic.

Stir in spices, salt and pepper, and milk and breadcrumbs, if employing.

Soon after sauting for about ten minutes, add enough water to just cover the pork. Turn down to lower heat, cover with lid askew to let steam escape, and simmer for two to four hours. Stir pot occasionally, smashing meat mixture towards side of pot to kind a smooth pate and prevent clumps. Taste and add more salt or seasonings as preferred.

Clear away from warmth, pour off a little remaining liquid (if sought after ) and spoon into ramekins or glass bowls, smoothing the leading with a rubber spatula. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until finally very well -chilled, at least several hrs.

Serve spread on bread or crackers, with Dijon mustard and a pinch of garlic salt, if preferred. Garnish with cornichons or other pickles.



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Monday, December 24, 2012

It Wouldn't Be Xmas With no The Herring, Large Macs And Perogies

A number of weeks ago, we asked listeners to tell us what they ate for Xmas, even if they did not celebrate the vacation. Robert Siegel shares a round-up of some of their responses, which consist of a Big Mac and fries, herring salad, and two cans of soup.


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Father Leo On How To 'Spice Up' Your Married Existence

The hustle of the holidays can put a strain on married couples struggling to locate some time together. Father Leo Patalinghug says that cooking collectively in the kitchen goes a lengthy way towards strengthening a marriage. He speaks with guest host Celeste Headlee about his cookbook, Spicing Up Married Life .


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Sunday, December 23, 2012

Elixirs Produced To Battle Malaria Nevertheless Shine On The Modern Bar

Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine. Enlarge picture i

Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The unique James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine.

Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is made with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine.

Shaken with splash of malaria drug, please. The original James Bond martini is produced with gin, vodka and Kina Lillet, a French aperitif wine flavored with a smidge of the anti-malaria drug quinine.

This week, our colleagues over at the Shots weblog have been talking a great deal about malaria. And, here at The Salt, that received us contemplating about a single factor : gin and tonics.

As you almost certainly know, tonic is merely carbonated water mixed with quinine, a bitter compound that just occurs to remedy a malaria infection, albeit not so nicely.

Turns out, gin and tonics are not the only drinks with ties to the feverish sickness. If you're sipping an absinthe cocktail or an Italian aperitif this holiday season, possibilities are you happen to be also imbibing a bit of malaria's historical past.

Quite a few modern day day liqueurs like Campari and Pimm's contain quinine. And absinthe - that anise-flavored spirit with a nasty track record - also has a historical past with malaria.

Absinthe gets its bitter flavor and alleged psychedelic properties from wormwood, a shrub that is been close to considering that the dinosaurs. Coincidentally, the most potent malaria drug we have these days also comes from a sort of wormwood identified in China. Much more on that later.

Dubonnet is a French liqueur made wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops take their malaria medication.

Dubonnet is a French liqueur created wine, herbs and quinine. Joseph Dubonnet concocted the beverage as way to make troops consider their malaria medication.

So how in the heck did all these malaria medication get mixed in with our mixology?

Let us begin with the classic : quinine. The bitter compound comes from the bark of the cinchona tree (pronounced sin-KO-neh) in the Andes Mountains of South America.

It truly is unknown who discovered the fever-curing properties of the cinchona bark, but according to the Kew Royalty Botanical Gardens, Jesuit missionaries figured it out by about 1650, and quickly it grew to become the front-line defense for malaria in Europe (which at the time was taken care of with all sorts of barbaric approaches, like limb amputations and bloodletting).

By the late 1800s, the Dutch had been growing the cinchona tree on the island of Java in Indonesia to meet the high - demand for quinine back in Europe, the place monks and pharmacists were utilizing the bark to make medicinal tonics.

"Herb liqueurs all started off this way," says Amy Stewart, the author of a forthcoming book, The Drunken Botanist, and a specialist in horticulture.

"Apothecaries would soak the herbs and wood in alcohol to extract out the energetic substances and preserve them," she tells The Salt. "Then you include a small bit of sugar to make it taste superior, and you have a liqueur."

Stewart says pharmacist and chemists have been generating concoctions like this for just about every single ailment: abdomen aches, constipation, kidney stones and even alcohol-induced liver failure.

For malaria, they'd just add cinchona to the elixirs.

Some of these quinine-spiked liqueurs are however close to these days, and the malaria drug offers them a characteristic bitter flavor.

There is Lillet, a French aperitif that goes into James Bond's renowned martini: " 3 parts of Gordon's gin to a single aspect vodka and a half measure of Kina Lillet," he says in Casino Royale.

There is the Italian Cocchi Americano, which is an necessary part of the Corpse Reviver, one of the 1st cocktails made to cure a hangover.

And, then there is Dubonnet a sweet, quinine-flavored aperitif beloved by both the Queen Mother and Queen Elizabeth II. And, in the film The Way We Were , Barbara Streisand drank Dubonnet in excess of ice as Katie Morosky.

Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster actually promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif made with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine.

Often mistaken as an ad for absinthe, this 1906 poster essentially promotes Maruin Quina, a French aperitif created with white wine infused with cherries, citrus and quinine.

Dubonnet also shares historical roots with the gin and tonic. They had been the two concocted as a way to get soldiers to consider their malaria medication. Dubonnet assisted French troops in North Africa get their quinine while British officers in India reduce its bitter taste with gin, carbonated water and twist of lime.

So what about absinthe?

Whilst Europeans and South Americans were messing all over with cinchona and quinine, the Chinese had an even much more effective malaria drug up their sleeve or need to we say, in their tea cup.

According to a commentary in the British Journal of Clinical Pharmacology, regular Chinese medical professionals have been treating malaria with a tea produced from sweet wormwood, or qinghao, for 1000's of years. They'd soak the shrub in water and then wring it out to extract the active ingredients.

The New York Instances explained earlier this yr how this herbal remedy grow to be a modern-day -day malaria drug.

In the 1960s, Chairman Mao needed a magic bullet to stop malaria amongst soldiers in North Vietnam. So he enlisted major scientists to come across a new malaria drug from herbs utilized in classic Chinese medication.

It took 14 years and in excess of 50 researchers, but lastly the scientists isolated a powerful anti-malarial compound from sweet wormwood. It is termed artemisinin, and we still use it right now.

But a note of caution artemisinin isn't found in the European wormwood used in absinthe, so a drink of that liqueur wouldn't assist with a malaria infection.


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