Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Caffeine-Laced Gum Has Energized The FDA

Wrigley says its new Alert Energy Caffeine Gum gives consumers the power to control how much caffeine they get. Enlarge image i

Wrigley says its new Alert Energy Caffeine Gum gives consumers the power to control how much caffeine they get.

Wrigley says its new Alert Energy Caffeine Gum gives consumers the power to control how much caffeine they get.

Wrigley says its new Alert Energy Caffeine Gum gives consumers the power to control how much caffeine they get.

The caffeinated chewing gum has pushed the FDA over the edge.

The federal agency held its tongue when caffeinated potato chips, jelly beans, chocolate, sunflower seeds and energy bars hit the market.

But the launch of Alert Energy Caffeine Gum, from venerable gum purveyor Wrigley, prompted an FDA official to say the agency is looking into the potential health impacts, particularly among children and teenagers. (Wrigley says the gum is "not recommended for children or for people sensitive to caffeine.")

The only time the FDA ever explicitly approved the use of added caffeine was in the 1950s, when it allowed caffeine in soft drinks as a flavor enhancement. FDA Deputy Commissioner Michael R. Taylor said Monday in a statement:

"Today, the environment has changed. Children and adolescents may be exposed to caffeine beyond those foods in which caffeine is naturally found and beyond anything FDA envisioned when it made the determination regarding caffeine in cola."

So the FDA is taking a "fresh look" at caffeinated foods and beverage, Taylor said, particularly at how having multiple caffeine sources in the diet affects health. The agency "if necessary, will take appropriate action."

That's the regulatory equivalent of firing a warning shot. So we may be seeing the beginning of the end of the more-buzz-is-better approach to food and drink.

Other caffeine-laced gums have been on the market for years, and Wrigley may have been in the unfortunate position of being one caffeinated gum too many. The new gum is upfront about its 40 milligrams of caffeine per tablet, which it translates as the equivalent of a half-cup of coffee.

In 2010, the FDA pressured manufacturers of caffeinated alcohol drinks to stop adding caffeine and other stimulants to the drinks, following reports of hospitalizations and deaths among young people who allegedly consumed them.

Both the FDA and the Federal Trade Commission are looking into the marketing of energy drinks that don't contain alcohol, because of reports of health problems in people who used them. The caffeine content of energy drinks can vary widely, from 50 mg, along the lines of a small cup of coffee, to 500 mg.

A wide and weird variety of caffeinated foods have been introduced over the years, from caffeinated potato chips to caffeinated chocolate truffles. Most gain little traction in the marketplace, unlike energy drinks, which remain wildly popular.

Does caffeine pose a risk to children and teenagers, aside from keeping them up past bedtime?

The American Academy of Pediatrics says yes. In 2011, the doctors' group said that children and teenagers should never use caffeine, because it interferes with sleep, boosts heart rate, increases anxiety, and can dehydrate.

But there's no research on the long-term effects of caffeine on children and teenagers, according to Steven Meredith, a researcher in behavioral pharmacology at the Johns Hopkins School of Medicine.

"We've got these products like energy drinks that are marketed to children," Meredith told The Salt. "Energy drinks contain quite a bit of caffeine and [are] consumed relatively rapidly. You don't chug a cup of hot coffee before you go out and play football."

Because most adults consume caffeine every day, "I think we forget that it's a psychoactive drug," Meredith says. "It's an addictive drug, like a lot of other drugs."


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Sandwich Monday: The Pop-Tart Ice Cream Sandwich

Carl's Jr. Enlarge image i

Carl's Jr.

Carl's Jr.

Carl's Jr.

Artisan health food giant Carl's Jr. is currently testing a new summer menu item: the Pop-Tart Ice Cream Sandwich. The timing couldn't be better, as it'll help you gain that final pesky 75 pounds before hitting the beach.

We don't have access to a Carl's Jr. here in Chicago, but luckily, we were able to re-create the sandwich using items procured from our office vending machine. We went with frosted strawberry Pop-Tarts and vanilla ice cream.

It's always Christmas at WWDTM. Enlarge image i

It's always Christmas at WWDTM.

It's always Christmas at WWDTM.

It's always Christmas at WWDTM.

Robert: When I was a kid, my parents gave me one of these for breakfast every morning until they lost custody.

Mike: This is part of a balanced breakfast, as long as we're balancing breakfast on a three-tiered chocolate cake.

Miles: This is perfect for a family on the go, so long as no one's actually going anywhere.

Eva: I'm just happy someone's finally invented a way for me to eat both Pop-Tarts in the package at once.

It's best to eat these standing up over some sort of catchment device.

It's best to eat these standing up over some sort of catchment device.

Miles: It's nice Michelle Obama took the time to personally slap this out of my mouth.

Peter: How about a sandwich made with two strawberry Pop-Tarts, and the filling is the program from your own funeral?

Miles: Do you think strawberries can sue for libel for being mentioned in the description?

Robert: I think even tarts are offended by this one.

The sandwich turned Robert into an ice cream vampire. Enlarge image i

The sandwich turned Robert into an ice cream vampire.

The sandwich turned Robert into an ice cream vampire.

The sandwich turned Robert into an ice cream vampire.

Peter: It's really weird, but when I went to wipe my mouth, all my teeth ended up on the napkin.

Mike: It's a shame they didn't have this sandwich in the '60s. It's fun to imagine Audrey Hepburn staring in Breakfast at Haagen-Dazs.

Eva: No wonder she wore so much black.

After Robert got to it.

After Robert got to it.

[Verdict: Good, if you have a big enough mouth to eat it all in one bite, since the combination of hot toasted Pop-Tarts and ice cream melts into dessert soup almost immediately.]

[Suggested wine pairings: Yoo-Hoo Chocolate Drink, Kool-Aid Bursts, simple syrup.]

Sandwich Monday is a satirical feature from the humorists at Wait Wait ... Don't Tell Me.


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Monday, April 29, 2013

If TV's Your Cup Of Tea, Try A Character-Infused Blend

"What is a 'tea blend?'" is a Downton Abbey-inspired mix of almond, vanilla and cream teas accented with rose hips.

Apparently, fan fiction and fan art aren't the only options for expressing your love of Sherlock, Doctor Who and The Hunger Games. There's also tea.

If you visit the online tea store of Adagio Teas, you'll find a collection of "Fandom Blends." They're the teas that customers have mixed and named after characters in favorite TV shows, books, movies and comics.

"Eleven," one of Cara McGee's blends inspired by the new Doctor Who, is described as "quirky and dark." Amy Pond a blend in honor of one of the doctor's recent time-travelling companions is a fiery orange, cranberry and rooibos vanilla chai.

The company started allowing customers to create their own blends on the website in 2008. But the service really didn't take off until about a year ago, when comic artist Cara McGee decided to blend some Sherlock teas on a whim. She was initially inspired by a Moriar Tea graphic that played on the name of the detective's archnemesis, Moriarty.

Two of McGee's teas inspired by the latest BBC incarnation of Sherlock Holmes and his trusty sidekick.

Two of McGee's teas inspired by the latest BBC incarnation of Sherlock Holmes and his trusty sidekick.

These days, Adagio's site offers more than a thousand user-created "fandom teas" that anyone can purchase. McGee herself has made about 150 blends, and she's designed her own label art for them. So why express your fandom in teas?

"It's not just something that another person can look at on their screen," McGee says, "but they can actually order it and have it in their hands. And unlike a shirt or other merchandise, you can really experience it."

McGee calls "Bilbow Brew" inspired by The Hobbit her current favorite fandom blend. It combines Irish breakfast, sweet potato and vanilla green teas, and tastes "kind of like breakfast in the Shire," she says. "Smaug," on the other hand, has lapsang souchong, candy cane and ginger teas in it.

ThinkGeek is another company selling geeky beverages (specifically, Star Wars-themed), but the flavors aren't crowdsourced, and there are only three currently for sale: Star: Vader's Dark Side Roast Coffee, Dagobah Green Tea and Hoth Cocoa.

"Sellsword Spirits" was inspired by Bronn from Game of Thrones.

Ilya Kreymerman, Adagio's chief technology officer, says he doesn't know of other food or beverage companies out there that let the consumer design their own flavor especially not ones based on TV and book characters. "Tea lends itself well to that," he says. "Historically, people tended to create their own blends and share them."

We haven't come across other crowdsourced fan foods like Adagio's, but if you have, let us know.


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The Lollipop War

Dum Dums

I recently got a tour of the Spangler Candy Co., a family-owned firm in Bryan, Ohio. The company makes 10 million Dum Dums lollipops there every day, and it has a whole separate building where it stores the sugar enough to fill eight Olympic-size swimming pools.

The CEO, Kirk Vashaw, says he wants to expand the factory and make even more candy there. There's just one thing he needs.

"Let us buy sugar on the free market," he says.

As it turns out, there are two prices for sugar: the price you pay in the U.S., and the price you pay almost everywhere else in the world.

The price in the U.S. is about 15 cents a pound higher than the price in the rest of the world. That costs Spangler Candy an additional $3 million a year.

The higher U.S. sugar price is spelled out in U.S. law. You can find it right here, in the latest version of the farm bill, which says the U.S. government shall guarantee a minimum price for sugar that is not to drop below 22.9 cents per pound.

Because of the higher price here, lots of candies that used to be made in the U.S. Life Savers, candy canes are now made overseas.

Candy makers have been fighting the sugar thing in Congress for years, but they keep losing to sugar farmers.

A few days after my trip to the Dum Dums factory, I went to Sabin, Minn., to meet a sugar beet farmer, Blane Benedict. "Our family's been farming here since the late 1870s," he told me as he showed me around the farm.

People in Sabin say the whole local economy benefits when the farmers start turning their beets into sugar. Benedict says the farmers need that special protection in the law because sugar farmers in other countries get help from their governments, too.

But Daniel Sumner, an economist at the University of California, Davis, who used to help set farm policy, doesn't buy it.

"It's a very common rationalization: 'The other kids are doing it,' " he says. Sumner points out that the sugar lobby spends more than all the other agriculture lobbies on political campaigns.

Of course, the candy makers have their own proposed legislation that would get rid of the sugar price rule and, they say, would help keep candy-related jobs in the U.S.

That bill comes up regularly in Congress but always loses. The latest farm bill, which would extend the sugar program, is expected to pass.


Sunday, April 28, 2013

LISTEN: Jerry Seinfeld Scolds Steve Inskeep On The Macchiato

Jerry Seinfeld knows what this is. Now Steve Inskeep does as well. Enlarge image i

Jerry Seinfeld knows what this is. Now Steve Inskeep does as well.

Jerry Seinfeld knows what this is. Now Steve Inskeep does as well.

Jerry Seinfeld knows what this is. Now Steve Inskeep does as well.

'Morning Edition' Outtake: Seinfeld & Inskeep

Here's something you didn't hear on Morning Edition when comedian Jerry Seinfeld called to talk about coffee:

NPR's Steve Inskeep: "Do you have a limit to the number of words you are willing to use while ordering your coffee because it could be a double-shot, non-fat latte with caramel and vanilla? It could be a lot of things."

Seinfeld: "Yeah, I don't go for that stuff. I like it pretty basic. I've just started this espresso thing, but just milk and sugar, that's it. I don't want to talk that long to the guy or gal."

Inskeep: "Oh, espresso is great for that. It's a tiny cup. It's a whole different experience."

Seinfeld: "Yeah, do you know what macchiato means?"

Inskeep: "I don't even ... I don't know."

Seinfeld: "So, you're doing a show about coffee; you don't seem to have done much research."

Inskeep: "That is ... that's normal. My job is to ask questions of people who know what they're talking about."

Seinfeld: "Well, I don't really. But ... I just found out [that] macchiato is Italian for stained."

Inskeep: [Laughter]

Seinfeld: "What it means is a little milk in the espresso. You stain it."

Our friends at Morning Edition, where this has been coffee week, provided us with that outtake.

So, is Seinfeld right?

According to Starbucks, he is.

As for Steve, he tells us: "I think I should go try a macchiato as long as I can order it with as few words as possible."


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Don't Call It 'Turkish' Coffee, Unless, Of Course, It Is

Throughout the region that was once the Ottoman empire, people make coffee pretty much the same way: using coffee beans ground into a fine powder, then boiled in a little brass pot that the Turks call a cezve. Enlarge image i

Throughout the region that was once the Ottoman empire, people make coffee pretty much the same way: using coffee beans ground into a fine powder, then boiled in a little brass pot that the Turks call a cezve.

Throughout the region that was once the Ottoman empire, people make coffee pretty much the same way: using coffee beans ground into a fine powder, then boiled in a little brass pot that the Turks call a cezve.

Throughout the region that was once the Ottoman empire, people make coffee pretty much the same way: using coffee beans ground into a fine powder, then boiled in a little brass pot that the Turks call a cezve.

When I was in Istanbul in March, I stopped by a tiny cafe called Mandabatmaz, near Taksim Square. Ten Bulgarian tourists were inside, waiting for demitasses of rich, strong coffee "so thick even a water buffalo wouldn't sink in it," according to a translation of the cafe's name.

I ordered a cup of the velvety coffee, crowned with a bubbly froth.

"A beautiful Turkish coffee," said one of the Bulgarian tourists.

Back home in Bulgaria, as well as Slovenia, Hungary, Romania, Iran and Israel, they do call this "beautiful coffee" Turkish. And they make it pretty much the same way: using coffee beans ground into a fine powder, then boiled in a little brass pot that the Turks call a cezve. The coffee is ready when it rises, bubbles and nearly overflows.

The style of coffee, also known as Arabic, first came from Yemen. An Ottoman governor stationed in Yemen in the 16th century fell in love with it and introduced it to Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, who popularized coffee in Istanbul and beyond.

A century later, Sultan Murad IV outlawed coffee, calling it an indecent drink, and chopped off the heads of those who drank it. The coffee, obviously, won out.

Enlarge image i

The Turkish coffee served at Mandabatmaz cafe in Istanbul, where the coffee is served "so thick even a water buffalo wouldn't sink in it."

The Turkish coffee served at Mandabatmaz cafe in Istanbul, where the coffee is served "so thick even a water buffalo wouldn't sink in it."

But ordering Turkish coffee today doesn't go over well in some Balkan or eastern Mediterranean countries that were once part of the Ottoman Empire even if their preparation of the coffee is remarkably similar.

In Armenia, where the Ottomans led a genocide against more than a million people between 1915 and 1923, it's Armenian coffee. In Sarajevo, Bosnia, I once ordered a "Turkish coffee" only to be corrected by the irritated waiter: "You mean a Bosanska kafa" a Bosnian coffee. In Cyprus, which the Turks invaded in 1974, it's a kypriakos kafes Cypriot coffee. (Except in the northern third of the island, which Turkey has occupied since 1974.)

In Greece, where I live and which has a tortured history with Turkey, you order an elliniko a Greek coffee.

"It wasn't always this way," says Albert Arouh, a Greek food scholar who writes under a pen name, Epicurus. "When I was a kid in the 1960s, everyone in Greece called it Turkish coffee."

Arouh says he began noticing a name change after 1974, when the Greek military junta pushed for a coup in Cyprus that provoked Turkey to invade the island.

"The invasion sparked a lot of nationalism and anti-Turkish feelings," he says. "Some people tried to erase the Turks entirely from the coffee's history, and re-baptized it Greek coffee. Some even took to calling it Byzantine coffee, even though it was introduced to this part of the world in the sixteenth century, long after the Byzantine Empire's demise."

By the 1980s, Arouh noticed it was no longer politically correct to order a "Turkish coffee" in Greek cafes. By the early 1990s, Greek coffee companies like Bravo (now owned by Sara Lee Douwe Egberts) were producing commercials of sea, sun and nostalgic village scenes and declaring "in the most beautiful country in the world, we drink Greek coffee."

Nationalism was one reason for the change, says Marianthi Milona, a Greek cookbook writer who grew up in Cologne, Germany. "But it was also a way to differentiate from other kinds of coffee."

In the first half of the 20th century, the only coffee in Greece was "Turkish" coffee. Then came frappe, the iced drink made from instant Nescafe. Then espresso and cappuccino, which are now the hottest items in most Greek cafes. "So the 'coffee' the first coffee had to have a name too," she said. "And because we are in Greece, we decided it must be Greek."

In Athens, my uncle Thanassis, who has been making this coffee for more than 60 years, waits until the water in the pot is warm before adding the powdery grounds. He stirs the mixture until it looks creamy. In Istanbul, I noticed the man making the coffee at Mandabatmaz adding a few drops of hot water to spoonfuls of coffee and sugar, then whip-stirring the mixture into a dark paste. He then added more hot water to the pot before boiling it to velvety perfection over a gas flame.

My uncle and I tried the Mandabatmaz method at his house in Athens, with Turkish coffee I'd brought him as a gift from a market in Kadky on the Asian side of Istanbul. The coffee was stronger than the Loumidis brand my uncle usually buys but he agreed that it tasted great.

"To Suleiman the Magnificent," he said, holding up his demitasse in a toast. "Thanks for the coffee."


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Saturday, April 27, 2013

Hard Hits, Hard Liquor In 'The Summer of Beer and Whiskey'

The Summer of Beer and Whiskey
The Summer of Beer and Whiskey

How Brewers, Barkeeps, Rowdies, Immigrants, and a Wild Pennant Fight Made Baseball America's Game

by Edward Achorn

Hardcover, 318 pages purchase

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More on this book:

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  • Read an excerpt

The summer of 1883 proved to be a pivotal time for American baseball.

A brash German immigrant and beer garden owner, Chris Von der Ahe strode onto the scene to found a new franchise, the St. Louis Browns a team that would later become the St. Louis Cardinals.

His motivation? To sell more beer. And while he made a fortune, he also changed the sport forever.

Von der Ahe would go on to help found a new league called the American Association, providing a stark contrast to the buttoned-up National League. Tickets were cheaper, games were held on Sunday and the booze flowed freely.

"This greatly expanded the reach of baseball and made it a much more popular game," Edward Achorn tells weekends on All Things Considered host Jacki Lyden.

For the first time, baseball was opened up to "people who traditionally couldn't go to ball games, including immigrants and working people," Achorn says.

Achorn tells the story of baseball's early days in his new book, The Summer of Beer And Whiskey: How Brewers, Barkeeps, Rowdies, Immigrants, and a Wild Pennant Fight Made Baseball America's Game.


Interview Highlights:

On Chris Von der Ahe
"He's just a wonderfully colorful character. He would go into the clubhouse after games and sort of yell at players, 'Vy did you drop dat ball?' You know, as if they did it on purpose. He didn't really understand all the finer points of the game. But he was a brilliant man. And he just made baseball honest, he made it fun, and he just made the game boom."

On the risks players faced in the 1880s
"Just like America it was a very tough time. You had to be a rugged individual. And it was dangerous, especially for catchers. Catchers had no covering on their fingertips. Foul tips could hit their fingers and there were just grotesque and painful descriptions in the newspapers of the time about some of the injuries, I mean, exposed bones and blood dripping all over the place. The rest of the fielders played bare-handed. If you catch a hard-hit ball by a professional hitter with a bare hand, you'll know what that means."

On rowdy fans
"Fans would drink heavily. They would scream at the umpires. They would go out onto the field after games if they were upset, and try to attack him. I mean, 'Kill the umpire,' was not just a saying ... Baseball was this highly cathartic thing and people could go to the games and let out their emotions that were so repressed in America's Victorian society."


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VIDEO: The NPR Virtual Coffeehouse

All this week on The Salt and on Morning Edition, we've been exploring the stories behind your ritual cup of joe. On Friday afternoon, we held an NPR virtual coffeehouse to discuss. You can watch archived video of the first of what we hope will be a series of Google+ Hangouts with the NPR food team. Our goal is to get you involved.

Correspondents Allison Aubrey and Dan Charles hosted the event, which also featured digital reporter/editor Eliza Barclay and me, host of The Salt.

NPR latte art Enlarge image i
NPR latte art

Guests:

Mark Pendergrast, author of Uncommon Grounds

Peter Giuliano of the Specialty Coffee Association of America

Kim Elena Ionescu of Counter Culture Coffee


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Friday, April 26, 2013

Why Caffeine In Coffee Is A Miracle Drug For The Tired

Many believe that humanity's caffeine addiction has wrought a lot of good. Enlarge image i

Many believe that humanity's caffeine addiction has wrought a lot of good.

Many believe that humanity's caffeine addiction has wrought a lot of good.

Many believe that humanity's caffeine addiction has wrought a lot of good.

NPR's Coffee Week is winding down, but we'd be remiss if we didn't give some space to caffeine, the most widely used stimulant drug in the world.

As much as we may enjoy the nutty dark roast aromas and the sensations of a warm beverage, coffee is often just a caffeine delivery system for a groggy brain. Approximately 80 percent of caffeine is consumed in the form of coffee, and in the U.S., we average about two cups of coffee per day. That 200 milligrams of caffeine affects our brains, our performance, and maybe even our health.

Many believe that humanity's caffeine addiction has wrought a lot of benefits. Earlier in the week, historian Mark Pendergrast told us about how coffee (and caffeine) helped Western civilization "sober up" enough to get down to business. And Jerry Seinfeld claimed coffee has made us a more productive society.

But is there any science behind the idea that caffeine, by way of coffee, makes us better workers? And what exactly is caffeine doing to our tired brains?

For some, coffee is simply a a caffeine delivery system for a groggy brain. Enlarge image i

For some, coffee is simply a a caffeine delivery system for a groggy brain.

For some, coffee is simply a a caffeine delivery system for a groggy brain.

For some, coffee is simply a a caffeine delivery system for a groggy brain.

For these questions, we turned to Stephen Braun, a medical writer who sifted through the research on caffeine in his book Buzz: The Science and Lore of Alcohol and Caffeine. (It came out in 1997, but it's still among the best resources on the topic.)

According to Braun, caffeine works by blocking receptors for adenosine, a compound in the brain that makes you feel sleepy. In other words, he writes in the book, consuming caffeine is like "putting a block of wood under one of the brain's primary brake pedals."

Of course, there's a huge amount of variation in how caffeine affects individuals, which depends on genetics, tolerance and other factors. But several small studies have shown that at low doses (between 100 and 250 mg), caffeine improves alertness and mental performance, especially in people who are already tired. Neuroscientists report that it makes us more supportive of each other in social situations. And one study even found that higher caffeine consumption helped reduce the risk of workplace accidents.

"Its indirect action on arousal, mood and concentration contributes in large part to its cognitive enhancing properties," according to a review article in the Journal of Alzheimers Disease.

As Allison Aubrey reported last month, caffeine also seems to improve short-term memory if you're exhausted. But researchers said it didn't have any beneficial effects on memory among people who are well rested.

As with all drugs, there is such a thing as too much caffeine. According to a 2001 Institute of Medicine report, 600 mg of caffeine (or six cups of coffee) will bring on negative cognitive effects, otherwise known as the jitters, in most people including Kramer from Seinfeld. And some people are so sensitive to caffeine that one cup will bring on nervousness and irritability, rather than the alertness that most of us feel.

"We also know that caffeine is bad for people with anxiety for them, it's likely to hurt productivity," Braun tells The Salt. "But for people on the more depressive end, caffeine would improve productivity. The effect of the drug really depends on the brain into which it's being infused."

Increasingly, medical researchers are worried about about how teens' overuse of caffeine is keeping them from getting the restorative sleep they need. That goes for some adults, too.

As psychologist Harris Lieberman of the Army Research Institute of Environmental Medicine told NPR back in 2011, modern life has made us more dependent on the drug. "It's a combination of driving ourselves and having high expectations of ourselves, but also of society making a lot of demands on us, so they kind of add up to give us insufficient time to sleep."

Braun has a theory on how to get the most out of caffeine, and it involves taking regular "caffeine holidays" five or six times a year.

"I find it to be most useful when I start at a virgin state, so I taper down slowly," he says. "I switch from coffee to black tea, and then peppermint tea. So when I get that first cup of java again, it's such a great feeling."

Tapering down also reminds him that he can function perfectly well and sleep better without caffeine.


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Join Us In The NPR Virtual Coffeehouse Friday At Noon Eastern

NPR coffee Enlarge image i
NPR coffee

All this week on The Salt and on Morning Edition, we've been exploring the stories behind your ritual cup of joe. Now you can join us in the NPR virtual coffee house. At noon Eastern on Friday, reporters Allison Aubrey and Dan Charles, as well as some special guests from the series, will join us to chat and answer your questions in a Google Hangout.

Got questions? Submit them in the comments section below or tag them with the hashtag NPRCoffeeWeek on Google+ or Twitter.


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Thursday, April 25, 2013

Monkeys Also Want To Eat Like The Locals

The blue corn's just as tasty as the red corn, but it's not what the locals like. Enlarge image i

The blue corn's just as tasty as the red corn, but it's not what the locals like.

The blue corn's just as tasty as the red corn, but it's not what the locals like.

The blue corn's just as tasty as the red corn, but it's not what the locals like.

When you travel, do you want to drink Bellinis in Venice and yak butter tea in Tibet? Well, so do monkeys.

Monkeys will eat new, different food if they travel to a new place and want to fit in with the locals, according to a new study. But back home, they'll eat what Mama eats, shunning perfectly good food if it doesn't get her approval.

"When in Rome, do as the Romans do," says study co-author Andrew Whiten, director of the Centre for Social Learning and Cognitive Evolution at the University of St. Andrews in Scotland. "You're trying to ingratiate yourself."

There's growing evidence that animals learn behaviors through their social networks, much like humans, but most of those studies haven't been rigorous enough to prove that the shared behaviors don't come about through chance.

To try to nail that down, Whiten and his colleagues gave four groups of vervet monkeys living in the wild in South Africa two types of corn, one colored blue, the other red. One was flavored to be bitter. Within three months, the animals had learned to shun the bitter corn.

Then the scientists took away the corn. Months later, when a new crop of baby monkeys was old enough to eat solid food, the scientists once again put out tubs of red and blue corn. This time, none of the corn was bitter. But the baby monkeys ate only what they saw their mothers and other adults eating, even though the other corn was just as yummy.

Out of 27 baby monkeys, just one ate the non-preferred corn. And that monkey had seen his mom eat some of the shunned corn because monkeys of higher rank were hogging the "good" stuff. "It's really quite a strong effect," Whiten told The Salt.

The results were published in the journal Science. Most controlled experiments with animals are done in the lab, not in the wild, so this should give a better sense of how social interactions affect behavior.

The "mom effect" is interesting, but not unexpected; what baby wouldn't want what Mom eats? And there's an evolutionary benefit to that, because Mom already knows what food is most nutritious or tasty, and what's to be avoided.

The second part of the monkey and corn study is more surprising.

Young male monkeys who migrated into other groups after the first part of the corn experiment almost all chose the corn eaten by the new group, even though it was the color shunned in their home group. Those 10 monkeys chose the new-crowd corn even when none of the new monkeys were watching them eat.

Just one monkey, Lekker, stuck with the corn of his home group. "He was big and strong, and immediately rose up to a high-ranking position," Whiten says. It's easy to speculate that he didn't feel the need to fit in by eating like the locals, but as Whiten cautions, that's just one monkey. "Maybe he was just a nonconformist."

There are benefits to being a nonconformist, of course; out of experimentation and innovation come great inventions. Or a nonconformist could end up eating toxic food.

The take-home, Whiten says, "is how strong social learning can be in wild animals."

It's a big week for animals, food and social behavior. A second study in Science found that humpback whales spread new feeding techniques through their social networks the cetacean equivalent of sharing a new cooking method on blogs.

These scientists combed through 27 years of humpback whale observations in the Gulf of Maine. They showed that a new form of feeding, with whales slapping their tails on the surface of the water, spread among whales based on who they hung out with.

"We found it was following the social network, spreading from individual to individual, based on how much time they spent together, " says Jenny Allen, a researcher at the University of St. Andrews and lead author of the study.

The method, called lobtail feeding, was first observed in the wild around 1980. Now, about one-third of humpbacks in the Gulf of Maine use it. The whales who feed that way don't seem any healthier, Allen says, which suggests it doesn't necessarily catch more fish. "It seems almost to be personal preference."


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Step Aside, Gents. Witness The Rise Of Women In Coffee

Three women in coffee leading the way: Stephanie Backus of Portland Roasting, coffee farmer Miguelina Villatoro of Guatemala, and coffee exporter/processor Loyreth Sosa. Here they discuss coffee prices as they survey beans ready for milling.

Three women in coffee leading the way: Stephanie Backus of Portland Roasting, coffee farmer Miguelina Villatoro of Guatemala, and coffee exporter/processor Loyreth Sosa. Here they discuss coffee prices as they survey beans ready for milling.

The inspiration for NPR's Coffee Week arrived in an email last summer. I had just reported on the growing Third-Wave Movement in Coffee, and the burgeoning interest in coffee cuppings.

One listener, Margaret Swallow, who'd heard the story on her local station, WVXU in Cincinnati, reached out to me with the story of 30-plus years in coffee which culminated in the founding of the International Women's Coffee Alliance, a group with chapters from Kenya to Costa Rica.

Margaret Swallow co-founded the International Women's Coffee Alliance a decade ago.

Margaret Swallow co-founded the International Women's Coffee Alliance a decade ago.

Its mission is to help bolster women in coffee-producing countries in part, by helping them find ways to start their own businesses and bring more resources back to their communities. Stories like that of these four female coffee growers in Africa, whom we profiled last November, represent the vanguard of change and hope in the industry.

Swallow began her career in 1979. Back then, she was marketing the coffee that lots of us grew up with. Fresh out of Harvard Business School, she was hired by Proctor & Gamble as a brand assistant on Folgers Coffee.

If you listen to my story, you'll hear how she had an aha moment when she traveled to a coffee farm in Africa. The images she encountered of women and children working long hours in poor conditions, amid crushing poverty, stayed with her. She knew she wanted to make a difference.

The IWCA, now in its 10th year, has grown into a powerful networking organization. But there's still a long way to go. As the International Trade Centre has documented, women on family-owned coffee plants in African countries take on about 70 percent of maintenance and harvesting work. Yet they tend to have little or no control over their farms' finances, and they typically do not own land or have easy access to credit.

But change is coming.

Increasingly in Central and South America, women are making progress. On Tuesday, we documented the story of Guatemalan farmer Miguelina Villatoro. In Colombia, 47 percent of the National Federation of Colombian Coffee Growers' members are female. In fact, one-fifth of that country's farms are owned and operated by women, according to the federation.

So what's next? One new initiative underway is the creation of a Women's Harvest brand of coffee. Nancy Moore of the Almana Harvest Fund is collaborating with the Costa Rican chapter of the IWCA. They're hoping to launch a pilot soon.


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Wednesday, April 24, 2013

For Corn, Fickle Weather Makes For Uncertain Yields

Missouri farmer Gary Riedel says wet weather will put him about a month behind last year's planting.

Missouri farmer Gary Riedel says wet weather will put him about a month behind last year's planting.

Last year's drought wreaked havoc on farmers' fields in much of the Midwest, cutting crop yields and forcing livestock producers to cull their herds. This spring, the rain that farmers needed so badly in 2012 has finally returned. But maybe too much, and at the wrong time.

It's almost the end of April, which is prime time to plant corn. But farmers need a break in the rain so they can get this year's crops in the ground and try to lock in good yields at harvest.

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"There are other things that can limit yield, and planting date isn't necessarily even the most important one," says University of Missouri agronomist Brent Myers. "But it is something we have to consider. And we want to try to get that corn planted in that timely window of, say, after the first week of April to the first week in May."

At his farm in Centralia, Mo., Gary Riedel, 69, in his green baseball cap and Western-style shirt, is just itching to plant corn on 1,000 acres of his 2,300-acre farm. He pulls open the lid from one of his planter's hoppers and shows me the salmon-colored corn seed that's all ready to go.

"Last year, I believe I started planting on the 28th of March, and this year, it may be the 28th of April, the way it's beginning to look," Riedel says. "It's just that the later we get, the more we are subject to problems from pollination due to hot weather."

Excessive heat and dryness can hurt corn pollination and stunt growth, leading to lower yields. So farmers try to plant early especially with corn still getting about $6.50 a bushel. (As The Salt reported last year, corn farmers made serious money, even though yields were down.) The U.S. Department of Agriculture says by this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. This year, farmers only have 4 percent of their corn in the ground.

We walk out to one of his misty fields, and Riedel points to the reason.

"See there, you can see a water puddle out in the field," he says. "We're going to have to wait till that dries up."

But even when the puddle dries, it still might take a while to get corn into the ground. Planting in cold, wet soil can cause all kinds of problems for corn seedlings, including that they can't take root or emerge above ground.

By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now. Enlarge image i

By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now.

By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now.

By this time last year, 26 percent of the country's corn crop was already planted. A wet, cold spring means that only 4 percent is in the ground right now.

"We need some period of dry weather to help dry up the soil so producers can get out in the fields," says climatologist Pat Guinan, who has been forecasting the weather in Missouri for a quarter century. "Perhaps there may be some drier conditions, which will help. But right now, things are a little too wet across a good part of the state. And not only Missouri. Much of the Corn Belt is very wet. Especially from Iowa, over into Minnesota, parts of Wisconsin, Illinois and on into Indiana, we have some very wet conditions."

But even up until January, this moisture is what farmers had been hoping for. Last year's drought led to a 13 percent drop in corn production, which in turn led to tight corn stocks and increased competition for corn between ethanol plants and livestock producers. The shortfall is also hurting corn exports, which are now at a 40-year low.

"A good production year would mean there would be less competition and would improve margins," says Sterling Liddell, an agricultural economist with Rabo AgriFinance. "Especially in the cattle industry, which has suffered the most."

Last year's drought moved many farmers, including Gary Riedel, to increase the amount of crop insurance they carry. Peggy Smart, 77, also upped her coverage. Along with her family, she plants corn, soybeans and wheat on 6,000 acres of Missouri River bottomland in Tebbetts, Mo.

But nothing is planted yet. "We just don't have enough sunshine," she says.

Both Smart and Riedel are hoping to minimize the risks of bad weather by trying out drought- and flood-tolerant hybrid seeds this year. But first, they have to wait for the soil to dry out.

"It's just crazy that one year is one way and one is another," she says. "We don't have to go to Las Vegas to gamble, because farming is the biggest gamble there is."

Abbie Fentress Swanson reports from Missouri for Harvest Public Media, an agriculture-reporting project involving nine NPR member stations in the Midwest. For more stories about farm and food, check out Harvest Public Media.


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How Coffee Influenced The Course Of History

An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750.

An overseer sits in the shade while workers collect coffee beans on a Brazilian plantation, circa 1750.

Coffee is a powerful beverage. On a personal level, it helps keep us awake and active. On a much broader level, it has helped shape our history and continues to shape our culture.

Coffee plants grow wild in Ethiopia and were probably used by nomadic tribes for thousands of years, but it wasn't until the 1400s that people figured out they could roast its seeds. "Then it really took off," historian Mark Pendergrast author of Uncommon Grounds: The History of Coffee and How It Transformed Our World tells Morning Edition host Steve Inskeep.

By the 1500s, he says, the drink had spread to coffeehouses across the Arab world. Within another 150 years, it took Europe by storm.

"It actually had a major impact on the rise of business," Pendergrast says. Coffeehouses became a spot not just to enjoy a cup but to exchange ideas.

The insurer Lloyd's of London was founded hundreds of years ago in one of London's 2,000 coffeehouses, he notes. Literature, newspapers and even the works of great composers like Bach and Beethoven were also spawned in coffeehouses.

It is often said that after the Boston Tea Party of 1773, when American colonists raided British tea ships and threw crates of tea into the harbor, Americans universally switched over to drinking coffee.

"There's a lot of truth to the story, I found," Pendergrast says. He cites a letter John Adams wrote to his wife, Abigail, in which the Founding Father proclaims his love of tea but says he will have to learn to embrace coffee instead, because drinking tea had become unpatriotic.

For all the upsides coffee has brought the modern world, it also ushered in its fair share of downsides, too. Europeans carried coffee with them as they colonized various parts of the world, and this frequently meant they enslaved people in order to grow it.

"One of the ironies about coffee is it makes people think. It sort of creates egalitarian places coffeehouses where people can come together and so the French Revolution and the American Revolution were planned in coffeehouses," Pendergrast says. "On the other hand, that same coffee that was fueling the French Revolution was also being produced by African slaves who had been taken to San Domingo, which we now know as Haiti."

In Brazil where slavery was legal until 1888 coffee plantations would use slash-and-burn agriculture, tearing down rain forests and planting coffee trees that depleted the nutrients in soil. Once the soil had been sapped, growers would move on to another place.

And then there are history's many coffee naysayers. In 1511, for example, the governor of Mecca banned coffee because his medical advisers warned it was bad for people's health. In 1674, women in London were convinced that coffee made their husbands impotent.

And yet, in an age when beer soup was the breakfast of champions, coffee had one undeniable health benefit: "Western civilization sobered up," Pendergrast says. Coffee, he says, "had a very good impact in many ways on our civilization, even though it was, for a long time, grown by slaves."


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